The Cormier-Magness Route
This route follows a line between Beginner’s Route and Beginner’s Easy and is a straight shot up to the head wall area before it veers to the right. The protection is generally good. Carry a standard Whitehorse rack to a #2 Camalot. Pitches 1-4 have fixed rappel stations and are set for 60 M ropes. Lead with a 60, anything shorter and you’re hosed.
We had a hoot establishing this line which promises to become a popular. All of the pitches are high quality.
8/31/2012, Paul Cormier and Chris Magness. Ground-up, swapping leads.
1) scramble to the pine tree at the end of the first pitch of Beginner’s Route.
2) “The Wheat Thin Arete” 5.6, 190’. Step right of the tree 10’ and head up toward a bolt. Climb past a horizontal to join a thin flake. Follow the flake to an arête on the right, passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
3) “The Cajun Washboard” 5.6, 170’. Straight up off the belay through some bulgy areas passing one bolt to a steeper wall. Move up and right passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
4) “The Open Book” 5.6, 200’. Climb a bulge off the belay into an open book. Pass one bolt before reaching the top of the book. Protect and climb rightward through a green licheny area. Climb a short flake and hand crack up to a tree with a blue tat anchor.
5) “The Northwest Passage” 5.5, 60’. Step up and left off the belay into a giant, steep flake. Trend up and slightly right above the flake passing a small tree to a larger tree below a bulge with a horizontal.
6) “The Low Beer Light Pitch” 5.4, 180’. Use the horizontal to clear to clear the bulge. Trend slightly rightward avoiding a dirty water groove to the left. Step back left to a tree belay.
7) “The Platinum Slab” 5.5, 190’. Follow a bulgy groove to an old ¼ bolt bolt and a new 3/8 bolt. Trend up and left passing a faint dike aiming for a white slab and another bolt. Belay at pine tree.
8 ) "The Top Out Pitch" 5.3, 60'. Climb easy rock straight up to the top.