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Poll

Is 5mm cord too much for prussiks and rescue friction hitch tie off situations?

Bastards!
- 7 (58.3%)
Whatever happened to using your shoelaces like ghey Bond?
- 1 (8.3%)
Whats a prussik?
- 4 (33.3%)
Metric is so European
- 0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 11


Pages: [1] 2   Go Down

Author Topic: prussik cord  (Read 765 times)

frik

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prussik cord
« on: September 19, 2012, 02:22:45 PM »

I've been told i am an unsafe old fart who needs to get with the times and carry more stuff when i climb...
Seems like they are all Bastards!
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DLottmann

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2012, 03:58:20 PM »

This topic is ridiculous
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JBrochu

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2012, 04:04:15 PM »

I've been told i am an unsafe old fart who needs to get with the times and carry more stuff when i climb...
Seems like they are all Bastards!


Who told you that you were unsafe?

BTW - you are an old fart.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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sneoh

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2012, 04:50:46 PM »

Darn, another reason why it is bad to pick Velcro shoes or slippers over good olde lace-up. :):)
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

ELM

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2012, 05:10:12 PM »

Al...you need to take away our ability to do polls. :o
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Ed Matt
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JBrochu

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #5 on: September 19, 2012, 07:48:20 PM »

Al...you need to take away our ability to do polls. :o

Create a poll to see who agrees imo.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

carp

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2012, 07:54:29 AM »

I use the same 7mm that I buy for cordelettes. I carry one prussik and one cordelette made of the same stuff. Much more multi-use. I can escape a belay, ascend a weighted rope, back up old rappel tat, build a v-thread, tie a good bed-post knot, whatever is needed.
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Admin Al

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2012, 08:01:56 AM »

Al...you need to take away our ability to do polls. :o

Create a poll to see who agrees imo.

LOL...
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Al Hospers
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Flotsam

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2012, 12:12:19 PM »

I've been told i am an unsafe old fart who needs to get with the times and carry more stuff when i climb...
Seems like they are all Bastards!

It's difficult to know the answers fasure over the internet...

 - Are you old? Chances are, if you are asking, YES, you are old.
 - Are you unsafe?  You may have one check box of the 10... I'm guessing 5 or more and you'd be considered totally unsafe.

(http://climbing.about.com/od/staysafeclimbing/tp/10ClimbingSafetyTips.htm)

1. Always Check Harnesses

2. Always Check Knots
    Before you start climbing, always double check that leaderís tie-in knot...

3. Always Wear a Helmet

4. Always Check the Rope and Belay Device
    Always double check that the rope is properly threaded through the belay device (especially if it is a GriGri).

5. Always Use a Long Rope

6. Always Pay Attention

7. Always Bring Enough Gear

8. Always Climb With the Rope Over Your Leg

9. Always Properly Clip the Rope
    Avoid backclipping...

10. Always Use Safe Anchors
      Always use at least two anchors. Three is better...
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DLottmann

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2012, 02:33:51 PM »

I've been told i am an unsafe old fart who needs to get with the times and carry more stuff when i climb...
Seems like they are all Bastards!
...
(http://climbing.about.com/od/staysafeclimbing/tp/10ClimbingSafetyTips.htm)

1. Always Check Harnesses

2. Always Check Knots
    Before you start climbing, always double check that leaderís tie-in knot...

3. Always Wear a Helmet

4. Always Check the Rope and Belay Device
    Always double check that the rope is properly threaded through the belay device (especially if it is a GriGri).

5. Always Use a Long Rope

6. Always Pay Attention

7. Always Bring Enough Gear

8. Always Climb With the Rope Over Your Leg

9. Always Properly Clip the Rope
    Avoid backclipping...

10. Always Use Safe Anchors
      Always use at least two anchors. Three is better...

Missing from this list is "Always communicate carefully", which might fall under "Pay Attention", but is more important in my opinion than #3 and #5. Poor communication is the #1 cause of lowering accidents, and is so easily preventable.

I also shy away from using the word "always" when guiding/instructing. There are exceptions to so many "rules" that "always" and "never" don't work as well as you'd think. The only "always" I use is "Always have a reason for what you are about to do or how you go about doing it".

And on #10, plenty of times I've only used 1 anchor.
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sneoh

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2012, 02:59:22 PM »

4. Always Check the Rope and Belay Device
    Always double check that the rope is properly threaded through the belay device (especially if it is a GriGri).
Yeah, with a Gri-Gri, the leader should not be "The Hand".  If so, and if the belayer is not aware of it and know what to do, both the leader and the belayer will be in for a big surprise.


And on #10, plenty of times I've only used 1 anchor.
A strong and healthy tree?
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2012, 03:48:48 PM »

4. Always Check the Rope and Belay Device
    Always double check that the rope is properly threaded through the belay device (especially if it is a GriGri).
Yeah, with a Gri-Gri, the leader should not be "The Hand".  If so, and if the belayer is not aware of it and know what to do, both the leader and the belayer will be in for a big surprise.


And on #10, plenty of times I've only used 1 anchor.
A strong and healthy tree?

A mis-threaded Gri-Gri was the closest I've been to getting hurt climbing (knock on wood). About 8 years ago, Smear had just led Junco at Rumney and been lowered off. We switched rope ends and I tied in for a quick TR while my then-girlfriend who was relatively new to the sport installed the GriGri. Neither Smear or I checked her. After topping out I called "Take" and as I was lowered to the steep part I started free falling. She stopped me, somehow, after about a 15 foot free fall. I still remember Smear jumping over to her to assist in holding me, then looking up after seeing the GriGri and saying "You're not going to believe this". I clipped into a bolt while they swapped to an ATC, and learned a big lesson that day, and took full responsibility. I have not left the ground since without double checking my harness/knot AND the belay's setup.

RE: Anchor, Yes, big strong tree, and sometimes when alpine climbing 1 bomber thread/hex.
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sneoh

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #12 on: September 28, 2012, 04:20:10 PM »

Dman, glad no one got dropped that day and everyone learned a valuable lesson!

A backward threaded Gri-Gri behaves much like a "loose" ATC and offers not much (but not zero) friction.  But that is not the biggest problem though, which is it no longer "auto lock".  So, if the belayer is expecting 'normal' behavior from the Gri-Gri, both he/she and the leader are in for a big surprise, if not tragedy.
I have actually (on purpose) lowered someone on a TR at a gym with the Gri-Gri threaded backwards.  With the TR, it was not bad but I was expecting little friction to begin with.  However, for a lead-fall, and the belayer not knowing the Gri-Gri is backwards? The outcome could be ugly.
« Last Edit: September 28, 2012, 04:22:17 PM by sneoh »
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

pappy

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #13 on: September 28, 2012, 04:29:27 PM »

oh dear, I think I've violated about all ten of those at one time or another...  :o :o :-\
« Last Edit: September 28, 2012, 04:31:23 PM by pappy »
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strandman

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Re: prussik cord
« Reply #14 on: September 28, 2012, 05:10:32 PM »

What a load of crap
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