Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Admin Al]

Perfect weather for my trip down to the Gunks with George Hurley. We haven't climbed particularly hard, but we have had a blast. Doing Madame G today was worth the trip! 5.6 my ass! (Grin) City Lights yesterday was also a trip. That start is slippery as snot! Weather is crapping out tomorrow so we will be heading back around noon, but it was well worth the drive, and this from someone who rarely leaves the Valley!

[sneoh]

Sounds like a good trip, Al!

The rap off Madame G was pretty wild BITD.  Not sure people are still rapping of the crooked tree these days or not.  I climbed 30 or 40 feet of P1 then linked P2 and P3 together, pretty good.  Ha, the City Light start was slippery 16 years ago, I imagine it has only gotten worse since. 
My fave 5.6 climbs at The Gunks are the money pitch of High E and all of Strictly From Nowhere.  Step it up to 5.7 and Something Interesting from the base to the GT Ledge in one long pitch is my favorite.  This and the money pitch of High E are the only two climbs I have ever repeated at The Gunks.

[Admin Al]

There is a bolted rap station right behind the Madame G tree now. It's still quite a rappel! George led p 1 and I did the next 2 as 1. I did it a couple of times in the early 90's and its still as wild as it was then.

It's a brilliant climb. Think about this - Hans Krause led it in 1943!!!!!!!! 69 years ago! Probably in mountain boots. What kind of rope did they have then, nuts weren't invented and probably hexed weren't either. They had pins, what else?

[Admin Al]

FWIW apparently the thing to do now is to do the whole thing as 1 long pitch... I can't believe you don't get a lot of rope drag tho.

Courtesy of IMCS we had a 70 meter rope, which is perfect IMNSHO. No problem getting off anything.

[David_G48]

Don't forget to stop at the farm stands on the way home as they offer great produce and pies.
When I was climbing at the Gunks I found myself using long slings on a fairly frequent basis to avoid rope drag from combining pitches and some of the wandering routes. Glad you had a good time. I look forward to pictures that I assume you will post with the Thursday report.

[sneoh]

FWIW apparently the thing to do now is to do the whole thing as 1 long pitch... I can't believe you don't get a lot of rope drag tho.

I was told that in '97 or so too.  I think to keep drag at a manageable level, one would probably protect to ~20 feet up and then skip obvious placements until AFTER the traverse to the right, just after the start of what would normally be P2.
Glad to know there are now bolted anchors!

[Jeff]

I first did City Lights in the early 70s right after it first appeared in the Vulgarian Digest new route list, along with CCK, Three Doves and a couple of others-- BTW if I remember correctly, Three Doves was rated 5.7 ? in that report-- not TOO accurate!  Gunks ratings were STIFF back then! City Lights was as slippery wearing Robbins blue boots then as it is now in TC Pros or the like. The quartzite hasn't changed! Since they were all rated at a grade we were climbing pretty well at the time, Frank Zahar and I went after all of them on the same weekend-- we didn't get spanked, but we did get majorly challenged

[Admin Al]

got in one last climb this morning in spite of rain last night. George led Bunny, at the Uberfall. as always, he managed it in great style.

[Admin Al]

Posted the full Gunks trip report in this week's WM Report. Enjoy...

[DWT]

Nice report Al.  I can't wait to get out there.

[xcrag_corex]

Nice report Al!!!!! Avoiding the Columbus day rush and gunking it up the weekend after!!!! I have some unfinished business with Double Clutch

[Admin Al]

Nice report Al!!!!! Avoiding the Columbus day rush and gunking it up the weekend after!!!! I have some unfinished business with Double Clutch

Ah yes...Double Clutch! It looks like a beast. Over my head I'm sure...

[sneoh]

Ah yes...Double Clutch! It looks like a beast. Over my head I'm sure...

Never had the pleasure of climbing this one but Son of Easy O is very reasonably graded and protects well.  You will send it Al.  I know you will, especially if you occasionally 'train' on the jug hauls at Rumney.



Great report, Al.  Thanks for sharing.  It brought back a lot of fond memories for me.  I stopped going after '96 or so, for no good reason, I am said to say.  Shoot me a PM the next time you head down and can tolerate a tag-along.
The cabin you stayed at, is that private or a rental?  I would not mind getting some details if it is a rental.

Yeah, I have to say the anchor situation at The Gunks can be improved.  That said, the qlinks and rap rings setup you described make sense if you know, no matter what, people will set up a TR directly through the anchor.  So, links to TR and rap rings for rap.  Links are cheaper and quicker to replace than rings.

So many moderates I still want/have to do; CCK, Arrow, Three Doves, Modern Times, Ant's Line, Bonnie's.  And for some strange reason; 10,000 Restless Virgin (though not a moderate)

[David_G48]

"Never had the pleasure of climbing this one but Son of Easy O is very reasonably graded and protects well."
Not sure how this relates to Double Clutch, I believe Al climbed Easy O which is not related to Son of Easy O. Red C. at -5.9 would be a good warm up before Double Clutch. I have done Red C. in the past and found it a good warm up.
Please clarify your statement Sneoh as I'm a bit confused which seems to happen with more frequency for me as of late.
Thanks
David

[sneoh]

No, it is my fault.  I had misread it as Double Crack, a 5.8.  My suggestion for Son of Easy O is because a) Al had done Easy O, and b) Son of Easy O is 5.8, and a great one at that.
Nothing wrong with you, David.