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Author Topic: Gunks trip  (Read 1966 times)

tinker

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2012, 08:50:41 AM »
Nice trip report.  Headed down in a couple weeks guess I will bring some quick links just in case.  I still go back to our trip last year when that guy set his arms on fire under the modern times roof.  (performance art)?   I have seen some wild stuff over the years and that was in the top five list for sure. :o
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strandman

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #16 on: September 29, 2012, 01:24:30 PM »
Al, is the Skytop situation still the same ??? What a cliff.... I only ever managed maybe half the routes I tried over there
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Admin Al

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #17 on: September 29, 2012, 05:26:26 PM »
Strand - from what I understand Skytop is closed unless you are staying at the Mohonk House and if you are you will need to hire an approved guide to take you there!

Sneoh: it's a private cabin, not for rent...

David: I have climbed Son Of Easy O in the past, but did not this time. when we get down again in the spring I plan on doing it. I know I can do it. I just need to get used to the grades a bit. heck, if I climb 5.10 here...
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Al Hospers
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sneoh

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #18 on: September 29, 2012, 08:02:34 PM »
John, did you get Foops in before they closed Skytop?  I did not even have the chance to get on it!  So envious of my friends who have sent it.

That's great, Al.  SoEO is very enjoyable.  Give a The Nears a whirl too; Alphonse, Broken Sling, Birdland, Roseland (pumpy!), Farewell To Arms (seconding it is as committing as leading it).

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

xcrag_corex

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #19 on: September 30, 2012, 12:12:35 AM »
Quote from: Admin Al on September 28, 2012, 04:46:36 PM
Quote from: xcrag_corex on September 28, 2012, 03:14:09 PM
Nice report Al!!!!! Avoiding the Columbus day rush and gunking it up the weekend after!!!! I have some unfinished business with Double Clutch :)

Ah yes...Double Clutch! It looks like a beast. Over my head I'm sure...
especially if you are short like me haha the pull through the roof is a long reach maybe this year it will go.... :)
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strandman

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #20 on: September 30, 2012, 03:25:09 PM »
Quote from: sneoh on September 29, 2012, 08:02:34 PM
John, did you get Foops in before they closed Skytop?  I did not even have the chance to get on it!  So envious of my friends who have sent it.

That's great, Al.  SoEO is very enjoyable.  Give a The Nears a whirl too; Alphonse, Broken Sling, Birdland, Roseland (pumpy!), Farewell To Arms (seconding it is as committing as leading it).
Yah- a great climb and it must be pretty easy 'cause I suckat roofs.  Open Cockpit, sticky bun,,, great climbs. The only time I MAY have had a shot at Supercrack was right after 2 months in the Valley and by then Skytop was closed.

Lost City  also has some awesome climbs
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sneoh

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #21 on: September 30, 2012, 09:38:22 PM »
Good job, John!  Nice.
Did you lead Sticky Bun Power?  Necky, I gather, but I recall Hugh saying it is his fave down at The Gunks (not sure he meant all routes or just the ones he had FA on).

Thanks again, Al, for the TR.  It has made me excited about The Gunks, again.  Maybe a March/April trip is in store.

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strandman

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #22 on: October 02, 2012, 02:12:14 PM »
i did Sticky with karl Mallmen  bitd.. a true Gunks effort, we yo-yo'd. The gear is rp's in horizontal.. maybe 5 and most of them hold.
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eyebolter

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #23 on: October 03, 2012, 09:29:15 AM »
Quote from: sneoh on September 29, 2012, 08:02:34 PM
John, did you get Foops in before they closed Skytop?  I did not even have the chance to get on it!  So envious of my friends who have sent it.



I'm lucky that I did it as well before it was closed.  That is by far my favorite cliff at the Gunks.  No Exit, Mellow Yellow and and Half Assid are all great 10+ routes.  Sound and Fury is a great 8 as well.
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strandman

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #24 on: October 04, 2012, 12:10:53 PM »
I did No Exit with TC bitd when it was 9+  !  TC got pumped... I hung
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Jeff

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #25 on: October 04, 2012, 03:19:44 PM »
I went to climb Sound & Fury in 1970 or so, having read in Art Gran's old red guide that it was 5.6, which I was leading regularly at the time--got SPANKED bad!! Lowered off and whined my way back to the Uberfall, where I talked to Dick Williams and others and learned that it was generally considered sustained 5.8--went back a year later, more experienced (and stronger) and climbed it in decent style, although it DID keep my interest! Great route, as are so many others at Skytop which are sadly off limits at present ???
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Admin Al

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #26 on: October 04, 2012, 03:41:18 PM »
apparently you can climb at SkyTop, IF you are staying at the house and ONLY IF you are guided by an approved guide.

SHEESH...
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Al Hospers
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old_school

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #27 on: October 05, 2012, 11:39:56 AM »
Quote from: Admin Al on October 04, 2012, 03:41:18 PM
apparently you can climb at SkyTop, IF you are staying at the house and ONLY IF you are guided by an approved guide.

SHEESH...

Yah..that's a deal! $600/night for the room and $275 for their guides service....totally worth $900. :-X
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

sneoh

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #28 on: October 05, 2012, 12:10:34 PM »
Quote from: old_school on October 05, 2012, 11:39:56 AM
Yah..that's a deal! $600/night for the room and $275 for their guides service....totally worth $900. :-X
Sooooo, if I do not send Foops on the first day, do I get to try again the next day for no addtl charge? :):)
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

tradmanclimbz

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Re: Gunks trip
« Reply #29 on: October 06, 2012, 08:02:00 AM »
I wonder if they get any takers on their $900.00 package?

My biggest spanking BINTD was on P38. I don't know for sure if I was on the right route but it was 5.9 in my book and aparently is 5.10d in the new book?  Took a bad whip too close to the deck. Ripped a #3 Chiounard soldered wire and was saved inches off the deck by a perfect #2 wire. Upside down, head first looking at a pile of rocks about 18 inches from my eyeballs. No lid.  Think I might have started drinking heavily after that one and called it a day :-\
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