i recall it happened on dave quinn's .11 at the asylum. we had all done the route (i think it was ted, allen catabriga, den dana and myself.) the crux involves some really painful stemming. i found the moves uncomfortable, and i was pretty flexible at the time.
unfortunately, ted decided he wanted to do it again...
we administered some "first aid" to help with the pain, which was considerable. the "fast squad" got there pretty quickly, but it took a little time for the emt with the real drugs to arrive. once ted got the shot, he was way blissed.
one of the climbers helping carry the litter was a young women with a halo of curly golden hair. ted looked at her, then rolled his head toward me and slurred, "she's like an angel..."
it sounds like stemming and replacement hips aren't the way to go.