And people give me a look when I tell them that a bomber nut is always better than a bolt: I know the history of the nut, I know how it was placed. I don't know anything about a bolt I find on some climb. He needs to be told sweetly (he is after all trying to help) that he's doing it wrong and educated. If that doesn't take right away then it needs to be done a lot less sweetly. After all, a bad bolt is worse and more dangerous than a manky cam, at least you don't have an uncritical acceptance of the cam.
A while back there was some blithering idiot in NC that decided that every climb should be bolted roughly every five feet, since it was unjustifiable to risk the danger of any fall. He even put a 45 min. video on how to place a bolt safely on the web, as well as an extravagent topo of his home 'crag' (which was some non-descript bluff in the Piedmont no one had ever heard of that appeared to be 100' of congealed mud featuring 80' 5.8s with 12-14 bolts each.) Since no one was paying him any attention, he then decided to bolt the first pitch of Sundial Crack, a classic 5.8 at Looking Glass. Needless to say, the NC boys were aghast and furious and in less than 24 hours were up there to chop the bolts, but fortunately they were able to simply pull them out with their fingers. The blew right by sweet and suggested--forcefully--that he should donate his Hilti to the CCC for real anchor replacement.
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Topic: How wrong am I (Read 907 times)