Never, never, ever I will insult a great climber like SA, Joe Cote or any one else as the way they did it in accident in north america:
"an experienced climber, 67 year old montaineer, not taking the consequences of a fall into considerationand not taking simple safety measures of using a rope, was the ultimate cause of his death" p 16
What a bunch of crap: Why did he fall? did he received ice or snow, is it possible to stop a fall with self arrest or boot belay? when is it time to rope up? and when it is better to stay unrope? if he rope up...do we had three death instead of one , etc. There is so much learning that we can talk about but the only thing that those guy had in mind:
you are going to die...
They wrote for the baby that can not make a beeeelay. They have a large section (better in freedom of the hill, fifth edition, not after) to instruct you how to do a beeeelay. You climb denali, but you have to follow the advice to do a good belay and if you don't do it like what they teach you....
you are stupid!!!
it was good to say that. I feel better. sorry
Now I can try to read the second story