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Poll: Indoor Training

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If you believe climbing movement/technique can effectively be trained indoors vote yes. If you believe indoor training is only good for strength/endurance vote no.

Your poll is too narrow... or maybe I am supposed to choose "Bastard"?

The answer is "to an extent".

Balance, counter-balance, opposition of force, hanging from straight arm, pushing rather than pulling... all these basics can be learned in a gym environment, there is really no doubt about that...

However, technique... or that part of technique one might say is "reading the rock"... that, is in very short supply in your average gym rat, and can only be gained from mileage on real rock... it's why we see recently emerged gym rats crimp their way up 5.8 crack, or just outside the crack...

And, I'll add I think gym climbing is pretty weak for "endurance" IMO... I don't care how many 5.11 30 foot routes you can do in an evening session... that doesn't translate well to even a moderate Grade IV like Solar Slab, Johnny Vegas, or other long MP routes...

I mostly agree with DMan.
Given that one cannot 'train' outdoors year-around (on rock) in the Northeast, I think a good gym is a good place to train for power and power-endurance, not so much pure endurance as DMan has pointed out. 
DMan - there are several good gyms in MA that have 40- and 40+ foot steep and pumpy routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range that will, at the end of the day, lay waste to your forearms and core.  Come on down this winter if there is poor ice up North (not saying it will be but just in case).

Solar Slab...? I mean it's a bunch of pitches but nothing that's going to tax endurance, unless you mean general endurance versus forearm endurance.

--- Quote ---Balance, counter-balance, opposition of force, hanging from straight arm, pushing rather than pulling...
--- End quote ---

This is what I mean. I would add initiation of movement, using momentum, maybe more...

I agree that there are components of technique that cannot be trained well indoors.

I have a basement gym, and it is a Godsend with a one year old.  It has maybe 20 feet of flat roof to the overhanging wall where the stairs used to be.  Maybe 11a the easiest route but harder variants.  Is it the same as outdoors?  Hell no, but I did five laps barefoot while Ella was napping today.  Lots better than nothing, which was the alternative..


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