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[PG]

The best training for ice climbing is something I devised in the gym I work at. It's a YMCA in Wareham, MA. were I have pretty much a catre blanche on the facility. I made some holds out of oak and mounted them on the wall. So the climber is basically hooking their way up. I've set about 5 quality routes with additional link ups. The routes are 35 ft tall with mostly overhanging terrain. The link ups can add as much as an additional 90 ft. It does not duplicate the swing of the tools but forces the climber to focus on body position and the all forgotten art of using your feet. Not to mention you will get a real forearm burn. Though it's not a total way to train , it's about 90% there. I've seen people train there and transition to ice very quickly. I've noticed that my first time out on ice every year after the third swing it's all back .The cost is $ 8.00 per visit and I'm there M thru Thurs from 5:30 to 8:00 PM.

Pete

[tradmanclimbz]

Do you make them hump a full winter pack up and down the stairs for 40 min before their training session and then throw rocks at them and spray them with an ice cold garden hose while they climb?

[Admin Al]

the biggest drain on energy IMNSHO is placing protection. go somewhere like the North End and practice running in screws with BOTH hands, preferably while hanging straight-arm from the other. get that down to  seconds and you should have no problem.

[tradmanclimbz]

+1  Al. Strength builds confidence and knowing you have the strength and technique to get a screw in on verticle or steeper terraine is exactly the kind of confidence you need to keep your head calm and not waste energy.   Knowing how to make a plan of where the screws go before you tackle a pillar helps you to not squander that strength.

[pappy]

There is a huge difference in danger from leading g or pg rated 5.10 rock VS grade 5 ice where even a fall on a good screw may end up in and open fracture of the lower leg. then there are all those times when the gear is not good due to thin ice, airated ice, rotten ice etc.  not to mention the fact that the ice may not be bonded to the cliff or the pillar may be brittle and waiting to colaps with you on it...   Just the sound of some of the more sketchy terrain when you are climbing it is enough to turn you into a sport climber....   the seriousness factor is way beyond most of the rock climbing we have around here..

Which just emphasizes that it is all mental. And footwork. Most ice climbers I see tend to make too many big moves with their feet, which will throw you out of balance and is dumb anyway when almost everywhere is a foot hold. Better to do lots of subtle little moves. And if you're kicking more than twice (and even twice is usually less than optimum), then stop--it's a nervous tic anyway--concentrate, and trust your feet. All you're doing is f**king up your foot placement. But again, you can't train that in a gym or at home.
And yeah, falling on ice is a spectacularly bad idea. So don't.

[neiceclimber]

I found three chossy moss filled walls between 40 and 90 ft long that I traverse back and forth. They have a mixture of slab, bulges, jugs, and holds that often break off.  The walls probably do little to improve my pure ice ability, but they build the forearms and calves and give me something to do when it's rainy outside. As an added bonus, since I'm only a few feet off the ground I'll place a beer at either end or on a shelf in the middle, can't restart or move on until you have a few sips.

[SidleK]

Lots and lots of 12oz curls....Preferably before climbing said grade 5   
No, but seriously, just get out there and climb it...Just keep breathing and remember that each placement is a jug...It is mostly mental...but a few pull ups can't hurt either

[Admin Al]

relaxed breathing is critical to confident climbing in general.

I prefer moving up inch by inch, rather than foot by foot. only 2 inches higher can open another world of holds...

[eyebolter]

I train by bouldering all winter and somehow never make it onto the ice.

[lucky luke]

As we use our ice axe to make sound placement and after thatt move the feet. I think that the best training is to take a hammer and fix some piece of wood like the carpenter do. In that kind of training, you hve to use both hands as in climbing you will place your ice axe with both side.
 
                     
 

by the way, I have free training wall for you. I must do my roof next week end and we have to fix the lumber to the roof!!!