Author Topic: Best Start?  (Read 421 times)

Offline Luceboy

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Best Start?
« on: April 28, 2004, 03:18:13 pm »
I am looking to take my wife to do Upper Refuse tomorrow.  What is the most fun line that will take us to the Refuse tree Ledge?  Is there anything special that I should consider for gear or just standard stuff?  Thanks for the info.
"Not all those that wander are lost." J.R.R. Tolkien

Offline boltingnh

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2004, 03:22:37 pm »
safe new pins on funhouse! :)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2004, 04:25:19 pm »
I really like bombardment. maby an extra .75 and #1 camalot but pretty much a standard rack.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2004, 05:16:47 pm »
Bombardment or FunHouse are your best choices. my wife & I will be over there as well. maybe we'll see you. we're going to do Ego Trip & Scene of the Climb & Starfire.

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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2004, 05:35:06 am »
 8)who's the culprit who spread vasaline all over the first pitch of Three Birches ;D ;D
« Last Edit: April 29, 2004, 05:35:44 am by tradmanclimbz »

Offline cklein

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2004, 08:00:11 am »
Another vote for bombardment.  

Offline scottie_c

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2004, 08:22:42 am »
if someone has cleaned up the poo on pooh, that is a pretty hard start with *interesting* moves throughout

Offline Stickyfingerz

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2004, 07:39:27 pm »
Speaking of Funhouse and Pooh...

Anyone know definitively where the second pitches of these two climbs go? I think I led Funhouse yesterday, but since going over the guidebooks, I'm not sure.

I basically did the climb as described on the Chauvin Guides website. According to Webster's guide, the second pitch cracks that I climbed are actually the second pitch of Pooh, and I should have been on the face to the left. This seems to agree with what Stuart Green wrote in his Rock Climbing New England book, however his topo on page 108 shows the climb traversing right to what appears to be Orc in Webster's book. Just to complicate things further, Jerry Handren's guidebook shows Funhouse as I climbed it and Pooh seems to go up a thin crack that Webster has as the third pitch of Rollin' and Tumblin' before traversing right into the Orc crack system. Whew!  ??? ??? ???

I'd be interested if anyone knows for sure which book is correct. I don't think it would be too hard to verify since the first ascent info is known for both routes.

~SF~
« Last Edit: April 30, 2004, 08:19:30 am by Stickyfingerz »
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2004, 09:50:36 pm »
the second pitch of Fun House climbs left of the large crack that starts behind the tree. that's the second pitch of Poo. you climb the face up a groove to another ledge and then up a clean light colored face up to the belay tree. there is an old ring piton up there on the face. frankly I like that climbing, especially the upper face.

Al
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Offline bungtang

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2004, 10:30:41 pm »
Yo stickyfingerz,
I'm the guy who entertained your belay on that climb...I'd say by the trail of blood I followed up that you climbed Pooh  ;D.

Offline scottie_c

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Re: Best Start?
« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2004, 06:12:46 am »
pooh had poo marking the start last season :o