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the management

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Author Topic: WOW!  (Read 1576 times)


  • Guest
Re: WOW!
« Reply #15 on: October 21, 2012, 09:24:17 PM »

   Look...we can all second guess this Dad. I know I have done things with my daughters that have raised an eyebrow. Backpacking in -10 was one I can think of.

So, we agree on the idea.

Just want to know reaction like this one, from "Smaller kids belaying adults (multi-pitch)"... andyposter76

No matter now good you are as a climber, if you are younger than 12 years old, you get bored and antsy. You get hungry, cranky, tired and you don't problem solve like an adult. Therefore, if you are being taken up a long multi pitch route, there should be an adult with you at belays to make sure you aren't dehydrated, etc.

and Dman
The other day I saw a father/son team on Whitehorse. The father was leading the dike route, and the son, I'm guessing around 6-9, was struggling to keep up with the belay (double ropes it appeared from below).
There are two main issues of concern IMO:

1) Obvious weight difference. [...]so if the leader falls there is a good chance for belayer injury.

2) Little fingers. I can imagine a kid getting his hand stuck in a belay device [...]

The last picture of wow! video...isn't it a young kid between 6 to 9 years?

and I don't suggest to any body to bring a child in a multi pitch route, I just think at how and when to take a decision to...

As to tying this into the other thread, you can not compare the two. I said ages "6 to 9", and this is a 12 year old. Also, I think this 12 year old probably had tens of thousands of multi-pitch under her harness compared to the shaky 7 year old I was referring to on Whitehorse in the other thread. I also guarantee you the father on Whitehorse was no Half-Dome speed climber, as he was struggling for more slack constantly from his belayer while on double ropes....

My point is, apples to oranges here Champ...

The dad on Whitehorse looked like it was his first time climbing in 7 years... with his young un-experienced kid...

The dad on Half-dome is obviously highly skilled, and the daughter obviously has put in some serious time on the rock...

You can't compare the two...

And the reason I focused on the bikini picture is I can't have a serious conversation with you, so I prefer to focus on the light hearted...

And I failed again...


  • Guest
Re: WOW!
« Reply #16 on: October 21, 2012, 09:28:33 PM »

I would have prefer that you focus on that line:
So, we have the upper limit, ability of the father, and the lower limit, capacity of the twelve year girl to learn from the experience. And a good father have to bring her daughter in some think between.

Okay... focused...

That is actually well said.

lucky luke

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Re: WOW!
« Reply #17 on: October 22, 2012, 09:03:07 AM »

And the reason I focused on the bikini picture is I can't have a serious conversation with you, so I prefer to focus on the light hearted...

And I failed again...

acting on knowledge, not ignorance...!!!

If you take a look at the last picture on the history of wow! 12 years girl, you will see that it is not a girl who stand on the rock with the lake behind him, without the skaters. It is a boy.

If someone want to prepare his kid to a be a good climber, he is not going to gave him the feeling that he is safe to teach the kid safety...he is going to gave him the feeling that he is in danger so the kid can adapt his skill to a situation that his father control, without the danger of a fall. Maybe the father make it so real that you think that he was in trouble. Many guide do that kind of training and unfortunately, the people understand it just few month or years later. In my opinion, it is the best training for trad climbing.

If you think at what I wrote on the upper limit and lower limit, what I asked you to focus, you will understand that if the girl is OVER is capacity to learn from the experience, that means that she can not adapt to the situation and she is an danger. I wrote voluntarily two upper limits, looking for some one to discuss it.

Deep understanding demand little bit more thinking than just writing some thing to gave an impression of strenght. It is what I don't like with the new generation. Fast food climbing, I use to say. It is not against sport climbing, but the superficial rules that people teach. Some of them like to think that they are in the same league of knowledge than the father leading half dome.   
« Last Edit: October 22, 2012, 02:39:48 PM by lucky luke »
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