General > Ice & Winter Climbing

Ice climbing boot recommendations

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I'm in the market for a new pair of ice boots. I have been climbing in Invernos and would like something more comfortable and technical.

Looking for recommendations on what everyone uses up north.

I know fit is important. I have tried on the Nepals, trangos, and baturas and they all feel good. I am hoping to get up for ice fest and demo these.

In your opinion what is 1) comfortable, 2) technical and 3) warm enough for ice in new Hampshire.



I couldn't tell you about other boots but,  my Nepals have been out twice a week for three seasons and they still look brand new.  My feet have never been cold in the Nepals.  If I go four days straight my toes get a bit "jacked up" but, I'm not sure that's a boot issue.

nepals are a reliable go-to. they'll be warm enough for everything in the northeast, except maybe the coldest days of the year on Washington/Katahdin. and they seem to last forever.

I've had success with scarpa omegas, climbed in the Ruth Gorge and did Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier with them. they're a plastic double boot, and are about 150 grams (per boot) lighter than nepals. I think they climb just as well as the nepals (did fafnir and the dike with them last year, no problems). I find them a bit warmer as well. and they're about $100 cheaper than nepals.

that said, they take a bit more attention than the nepals. if you lace them too tight, you'll have terrible shin bang. since they don't breathe, you have to use a vapor barrier sock with them or else your inner boots will become a swampy dungeon. I also attached some velcro to the inner boots so I can cinch them tight while leaving the plastic boot loose.

Nepals.... I have about 2-3 days a week for 3 seasons on mine as well and man have those things held up!!!! Warm and comfy.....but then again its the only boot I have ever climbed in...

I bought the Nepals last year-- 15+ days in them, climbing on my own and guiding--wanted something a little lighter and more technical than my La Sportiva K-4s which I've had for about 5 years-- those are a bit heavier, and perhaps a bit warmer, but don't fit me quite as well, so my feet hurt at the end of the day--both climb very well--the Nepals are neater on technical climbing. I kept the K-4s to use on colder days but haven't done so , and will probably sell them-- they look mint--size 43 ( I think-- they're in NH and I'm in CT at the moment). Another recommendation for the Nepals.


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