Ice climbing boot recommendations

[triguy]

I'm in the market for a new pair of ice boots. I have been climbing in Invernos and would like something more comfortable and technical.

Looking for recommendations on what everyone uses up north.

I know fit is important. I have tried on the Nepals, trangos, and baturas and they all feel good. I am hoping to get up for ice fest and demo these.

In your opinion what is 1) comfortable, 2) technical and 3) warm enough for ice in new Hampshire.

Thanks!

Scott

[DWT]

I couldn't tell you about other boots but,  my Nepals have been out twice a week for three seasons and they still look brand new.  My feet have never been cold in the Nepals.  If I go four days straight my toes get a bit "jacked up" but, I'm not sure that's a boot issue.

[fresh]

nepals are a reliable go-to. they'll be warm enough for everything in the northeast, except maybe the coldest days of the year on Washington/Katahdin. and they seem to last forever.

I've had success with scarpa omegas, climbed in the Ruth Gorge and did Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier with them. they're a plastic double boot, and are about 150 grams (per boot) lighter than nepals. I think they climb just as well as the nepals (did fafnir and the dike with them last year, no problems). I find them a bit warmer as well. and they're about $100 cheaper than nepals.

that said, they take a bit more attention than the nepals. if you lace them too tight, you'll have terrible shin bang. since they don't breathe, you have to use a vapor barrier sock with them or else your inner boots will become a swampy dungeon. I also attached some velcro to the inner boots so I can cinch them tight while leaving the plastic boot loose.

[xcrag_corex]

Nepals.... I have about 2-3 days a week for 3 seasons on mine as well and man have those things held up!!!! Warm and comfy.....but then again its the only boot I have ever climbed in...

[Jeff]

I bought the Nepals last year-- 15+ days in them, climbing on my own and guiding--wanted something a little lighter and more technical than my La Sportiva K-4s which I've had for about 5 years-- those are a bit heavier, and perhaps a bit warmer, but don't fit me quite as well, so my feet hurt at the end of the day--both climb very well--the Nepals are neater on technical climbing. I kept the K-4s to use on colder days but haven't done so , and will probably sell them-- they look mint--size 43 ( I think-- they're in NH and I'm in CT at the moment). Another recommendation for the Nepals.

[ELM]

    The Nepals are nice. But I am in the minority and have gotten very cold in them. I now rotate between the Nepals for warmer days and Koflach Artis Expe's for whan I will be standing alot or it is colder. Both climb about the same for me....but I also don't climb super hard.
    Boots are very personal so try on alot. The Ice Fest seems to be a good time to try a few in the field as well.

[Admin Al]

I like the Baturas

[triguy]

Al, I am curious why you like the baturas?

[SidleK]

Scarpa Phantom guides...more or less Scarpa's version of the Batura....I've had a pair since December 2010 and have probably climbed in them roughly 80 days....a dozen or so involving long days in the Tetons and they are stellar! The whole "integrated gaiter" concept is genius and I'll probably never go back to a standard lace up boot...

[Admin Al]

comfortable and warm

[perswig]

Looking for recommendations on what everyone uses up north.

I just go through Grammy's dumpster and use what he wore last year.
Or last month.

Or yesterday.

Dale
(Ha!)