I don't have any magical insights. just be honest with yourself about the risk you're taking. the best practices are to get super fit, pack light, get a pre-dawn start, and move fast. beyond that, perhaps check recent weather patterns for any rapid changes, which might indicate instability. but don't kid yourself. everything's unstable even under the best conditions. it's kind of like avalanche conditions--more knowledge about the snowpack doesn't necessarily make you safer. discretion, timing, and speed make you safer.