Author Topic: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge  (Read 582 times)

Offline dgkula

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Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« on: April 29, 2004, 07:51:58 pm »
Hi All,

A few questions if you please. I've been climbing about a year and started leading trad last Fall. I have led single pitch trad routes (without falling - OK I'm a scaredy cat) at 5.7 & 5.8 at Rumney (Holderness Crack, 5.8 Crack by the Road) and Lincoln Crag (Crooked Corner). I have not climbed multi-pitch routes (yet).

A friend, who can comfortably lead 5.9 trad multi-pitch, and I are considering doing the Whitney Gilman Ridge. Based on the description in "Secrets of the Notch" and at Chauvin Guides' web site (http://www.chauvinguides.com/gilmanguide.htm), I am not terribly concerned about the technical difficulty of the climb and hope to take my share of leads (and maybe try some of the 5.8 variations).

Neither of us has climbed at Cannon before.

My questions are:
+ Is the route "safe" and dry this time of year?
+ What are the objective hazzards associated with the climb (e.g. loose rock, weather, etc.)?
+ How hard is the route-finding?

Any tips for a first climbing trip to Cannon?

Thanks,
David
:)

Offline frik

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2004, 07:15:04 am »
The objective dangers are loose rock & bad weather.

For Cannon, the WG is a relatively solid route, however if you haven't climbed much loose stuff, it can be quite quite intimidating. Most of the rock on the route is pretty good, but there are a couple of sections where you need to be very carefull, the pitch below the "Pipe" in particular (and i'm not talking little stuff either).

The issue with the weather is that, if you are more than a few
pitches up the route, and a storm hits, retreat can be problematical. Certainly an experienced party with a bit of local knowledge would be fine. If you pick a good day you should be fine. Franconia's not like Colorado where you need to worry about fast moving afternnon T storms - usually.

Offline cklein

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2004, 08:49:04 am »
Has anybody done the last pitch 5.9 variation.   I think it goes up to the right and follows some old pins?  Is it any good? 

and to reply to the post.....routed finding is fairly straight forward.  The exposure is outstanding so be prepared to get scared if you've never climbed up high.  
« Last Edit: April 30, 2004, 08:54:34 am by cklein »

Offline tico

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2004, 09:05:32 am »
I did the 5.9 variation by accident, i just saw some pins and followed them, like i'd been doing the whole route.  it's not particularly hard, and it's well protected.  It's also the most logical way up and off.  

Offline cklein

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2004, 10:03:15 am »
It looks really enjoyable.

Offline xmikeyx

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2004, 02:55:14 pm »
From what I hear, people have already been regularly doign the WG for a while this year. I'd bet if you avoided the danger spots the climb is in fine shape. Take the 5.8 handcrack variation on pitch 2 (or 3 depending on how you do the lower stuff). It's a lot more solid than the 5.5/6 section on the south side of the ridge. I saw a guy lob a microwave sized block off of that area last year. The stuff above the handcrack is easy but intimidatign and you def. want to try the holds before commiting. The pipe pitch is incredible. and the 5.9 section at the top is great. I haven't done the original route, but the 5.9 variation is solid, well protected and goes straight up the ridge instead of around it. Not too hard, and lots of fun.

Just be careful because the route finding is can be tough and before you kow it you could find yourself in a heap of 5.7 loose blocky climbing with sh*t gear. It's a great route and a heck of a first multi-pitch route, so it'll be a hell of an adventure. :) Have Fun!
Climb hard, climb smart or fall...That's all there is to it.

Offline scottie_c

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2004, 06:51:27 am »
great route with many options.
if you have the secrets of the notch, you are all set.
the 5.8 variation will avoid most loose rock.

i would recommend moby grape too. a stellar 5.8 that is considerably longer than whitney g.

Offline cklein

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2004, 07:42:16 am »
Anybody out there been on Moby Grape yet this year?  Wondering if the route is wet in the spring due to run off and/or seepage?  

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2004, 11:04:16 am »
I would be pretty leary of the upper slabs on moby early season. Definatly avoid kurts corner.  I wouldn't recomend moby to a new trad leader. it is quite a bit more involved than WG

Offline john_c

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2004, 05:00:55 pm »
My girlfriend and I did the first 5(?) pitches of Moby Grape on Saturday afternoon.  It was beautiful--great weather, no bugs.  There was some windblown dripping to the left of the belay below the Finger of Fate, but other than that the route was dry on our way up (say, maybe 12-4 ish).  However while rappelling down, I noticed more seepage on the route itself, mostly on the slab below the Triangle Roof.  I can't explain the increase in seepage later in the day, but it was definitely wetter.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Questions about Whitney Gilman Ridge
« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2004, 06:27:12 am »
The p[art bthat is usualy wet is the slabs above the finger. Kurts corner is pretty scary when it is wet .