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New Route on Bondcliff Oct 26-27, 2012

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Greetings all,

My buddy Zach and I decided to do something different, so on Friday, October 27 and Saturday, October 28, 2012 under unseasonably warm conditions and mostly blue skies with moderate to no winds, we explored the sides of the iconic Bondcliff Buttress. 

Now we are certainly not the first one's to have climbed on Bondcliff, but I believe we freed a route, but before we go prancing around all high on ourselves as the Legends of Choss we certainly are, I thought I had better inquire to see if this route has ever been done before.  No evidence of anyone recording it, but always good to double check!

Start on the Buttress, in the corner closest to Mt. Bond (that would be climber's left if ascending), and rappel straight down to the overhang, and then rotate clockwise (again, climber's left) facing the wall, down to the Great Choss Glacier below.

Start by climbing the two-inch vertical crack that runs slanting left to right, ending at a moss-covered ledge.  Walk straight in and continue climbing until you reach an overhang comprised of several large, thumpy blocks.  (They seem to be in there very firmly, but they do thump!)  Traverse to climber's right over the block to the right (this is the first crux), and continue climbing to a large ledge.

The final face is now slightly to climber's left.  There will be a vertical crack just to one's left.  This is the crux move--a 5.6.  Up to a small ledge, and then finish by climbing up through the chimney that one initially rapped down.

One pitch.  A 60m rope will get you safely down to the start.

Obviously we would like to name it.  (Since it's Bondcliff, we will probably use a James Bond theme, maybe "007"), but obviously, we don't want to get ahead of ourselves!

We went out for the adventure, and it was a great weekend.  The climbing is very chossy and more than a few of the blocks give a hollow thump, but it is certainly something different, and you'll have a million hikers snap your picture if the weather is nice enough to draw the crowds.

Is anyone aware of this route being climbed before?

All the best,


Awesome !! the mysterious Bondcliff.  Ther sure is a tremendous amount of rock out there, some of it even climbable

How about "Pussy galore" ?

.....or Octopussy

Years ago I heard that a couple of people that worked at Galehead hut climbed there quite a bit.  I have no other info, sorry.  Spectacular location, sorry to hear the rock sucks.


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