What do you think he can learn in working a technique at expert level?
Closer to perfection in that particular technique, for one thing.
One progresses not only by learning new techniques but also improving upon the ones one already knows (but not so well that there is no more room left for improvement).
I think that at expert level, using a combinaison of technique togheter is the main point. I agree that in sport, you learn by imitation, that means trying hard move and trying to reproduce a movement by falling number of times...and trying an other movement to success. Your progression is faster, you can do it without a lot of training and work a route number of time. Emulation, competition between people are more important and stimulate the climber to try hard things.
In trad, the goal is more to free from the bottom up. So you have to understand how your body is place in the space and see the hole to anticipate the good sequence without loosing to much energy to finish the route and without falling. In trad, it is more important to have a deep understanding of the technique. For that reason, we climb at a lower level than in sport.
One move in quebec, that only one person can do corectly in my knowledge, conrad, is a double side layback. You begin a layback in a crack right shoulder close to the rock and finish left shoulder close to the rock. Between that, you use a barn door effect to have the momentum to stay on the rock. I had tryed direct finish of "faux quelqu'un qu'il la fasse" a couple of time and was very close to make it...meaning that there is less rock to climb above me than under me.
In the sport thread, the last three topic count around 600 person who read the thread, in trad section...this topic had more than 600 person reading the topic. I can be a bad guy and ask the question: is sport so boring that people don't follow there thread? It is not the case, the meaning of my reflection/reflexion note was to understand the problem and to ask politely expert climber to understand that they were beginer ounce upon of time and to write for people of all level of knowledge...and write thing that is associate with sport climbing in the sport section so you won't demotivate "weaker", at your understanding, climber who don't want to climb with a sport ethic. Edlinger said: the only think that a beginer can imitate corectly from and exxpert is to put is hand on a chalk bag (traduction). For me, the smile of a trad beginer climber who just made the 5.5 move at the top of lake view, canon, is as important as the smile of an expert doing vmc direct onsight.
