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Author Topic: Where's the best layback in NH?  (Read 3838 times)

darwined

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Where's the best layback in NH?
« on: October 30, 2012, 07:57:09 PM »

Is there a climb I can TR to work this technique?  Something out of the way and kinda hard would be cool.  Thx
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danf

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2012, 09:06:16 PM »

I don't know how top-ropable it would be, but it is out of the normal realm at Rumney and it is a 5.10 a/b from what I've found...  Layback and Relax at the G-spot wall.  It shares an anchor with another route (Lichen Lickin I believe) that's a 5.11, so if you can climb that route it may be possible to set up a TR through the anchors for Layback.  Probably not the best route out there for what you want, but it's the first one I know of that comes to mind- probably mostly because it's where I took my first lead fall!
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DLottmann

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2012, 09:24:34 PM »

First 10 feet of Kiddy Crack on Cathedral... slippery little move that one... Cosmic Amazement above the South Buttress of Whitehorse... pretty classic 5.9 but a hell of an approach to set up a TR. Can't think of many other classic lay-backs that one could drop a TR on around here... Beezlebub Corner has some nice layback moves but must lead it to TR it...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2012, 11:19:37 PM »

Great Corner Wheeler.  Lead it is the way to go though some do TR it...
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lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2012, 11:29:00 PM »

Is there a climb I can TR to work this technique?  Something out of the way and kinda hard would be cool.  Thx

To work that technique, what do you means? Duet direct is a jam and layback route. The first pitch have almost all vertical hold. Second pitch was also a nice 5.9+ layback. I think that it is a testpiece to know if you are a 5.9 -5.10 climber. Not a route to work the technique.

fun house, left hand corner is a streneous layback. You can try it by the right or by the left. You can set a top rope and try barn door technique or steaming/layback situation, or to change from a right side layback to a left side layback. At the top, to the right of pine tree eliminate, there is also two crack that you can try as a layback. Instead of steaming technique, you will need off with technique to climb the route after many try to do layback. Good places, easy access and a lot of work to do to master the technique and be able to aim to onsight a testpiece.
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DLottmann

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2012, 12:14:24 AM »

Is there a climb I can TR to work this technique?  Something out of the way and kinda hard would be cool.  Thx
...try barn door technique...

Great suggestions Lucky Luke. Just to clarify, as I've seen you mention this before... what you mean is "flagging" technique... "barn door" is what happens when you do not "flag"... so in English it would read:

Practice flagging technique to prevent the dreaded "barn door".... when you spin off balance...
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lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2012, 12:37:25 AM »

Just to clarify, as I've seen you mention this before... what you mean is "flagging" technique... "barn door" is what happens when you do not "flag"... so in English it would read:

Practice flagging technique to prevent the dreaded "barn door".... when you spin off balance...

Better if you don't clarify.

When you do a layback and you are at the maximum range, you can do a barn door and fall. Going from the right side layback to the left side layback could place you in a position to make a barn door.

Three birtches is an other good training. It is a special layback call undercling. If you place your feet to hight, the strength is all on your hand, if you place it too low, your feet slip. As you look at the fall, you better to fall on your feet than on your back. So, which is the best hand and feet placement on that particular layback?

Keep training!
« Last Edit: October 31, 2012, 12:41:09 AM by lucky luke »
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sneoh

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2012, 01:34:05 AM »

In the typical left or right layback (not undercling), the general rule of thumb is if left-hand layback, then to prevent barndoor, 'plant' with right foot, mostly use mid-sole and outside edge of (right) shoe.  If right-hand layback, then 'plant' with left foot, again mostly using mid-sole and outside edge of (left) shoe.
There are many refinements one can add to the basics.  For example, one that works for me when the 'plant' foot (or right foot when left-hand layback) is on a marginal hold, is to  brace the top of the toe box of my other foot/shoe (left in this example) against the wall.  This creates counter pressure on the 'plant' foot to make the marginal footing (right in this example) a little better.  But, it takes some practice to get it to work and YMMV too.

People often laugh when I say sometimes an 'inside flag' with the right foot works well to prevent barn-door when both left foot and left hand are used in a lay back move.  Whatever .... but it works for me in certain situations and for Joe L too, from whom I learnt this unusual move almost twenty years ago.

The only memorable (read long) route with a lot of layback for me is Return To Forever at Acadia NP in ME.  Good climbing, great location, and wonderful views from the top.  Do it!!

« Last Edit: October 31, 2012, 01:44:10 AM by sneoh »
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Admin Al

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2012, 07:04:13 AM »

what about Turner's?
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #9 on: October 31, 2012, 08:02:34 AM »

Retaliation 8)
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sneoh

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #10 on: October 31, 2012, 08:58:45 AM »

Good one, Tradman, but this is bound to get Lucky going on about the difference between undercling and layback, yadda, yadda :)



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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2012, 09:39:42 AM »

Shuffle, shuffle, shuffle
Pure laybacks in NE are pretty rare;

Peanut gallery has cruxy laybacks before the wide
P1 Women in Love is kinda laybacky and good tr after Pi of the Book
lichen It a Lot is cool but a tr set up would be tough to do, it pro's really well though

sneoh- are you talking about the famous "finnish crossstep" move  the inside out foot plant ?
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lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2012, 10:16:14 AM »

In the typical left or right layback (not undercling), the general rule of thumb is if left-hand layback, then to prevent barndoor, 'plant' with right foot, mostly use mid-sole and outside edge of (right) shoe.

As the question is about to "work a route" I will agree with a sport technique approach.

As the question is about "working a technique", I will consider that the guy already know the thumb rules and want really to try new options to have the feeling of the rock. Three birtches is interesting for that as the layback (pulling with the arms and pushing with the feet) is going to near horizontal hold to close to vertical one. Although that friction is mostly use, the short move of layback are streneous. Particularly when it is wet.

I often saw people learning general rules and try to do a route. When there body are not in a good position, they felt and work the route to a perfect match. Most route on a cliff can be done in one or two days and you have to look at new cliff or open new route to have fun to climb. It is not my ethic, it is the ethic of sport climbing. I like to train and when I am ready...I test my knowledge on a route. Some times I fail (the nose, overtraining), some time I don't try the route (great diedral, poko, vmc direct). But I still have a lot of knew route to try and to climb onsight. A 5.8 route that you can not read can be more fun than a 5.11 route where you just need power to make the crux. Particularly to your partner when he can laught at you when you bail in a 5.6!!!

the possessed is a kind of tespiece or good training as I tried it on top rope or warm up for some climber       

« Last Edit: October 31, 2012, 10:21:26 AM by lucky luke »
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strandman

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2012, 10:22:40 AM »

Ripper is a fine route but, if there is a layback move on it, I missed something. Several times

Possessed has layback moves but is rather harder
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lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #14 on: October 31, 2012, 10:37:33 AM »

Ripper is a fine route but, if there is a layback move on it, I missed something. Several times

I was thinking of possessed when I wrote riper. There is a nice layback on possessed...I didn't understand how to place my bdyy, lack of strenght, shoes was finish, the air was humid, forget my chalk bag,... I am good at techniques, but I also know plenty of good excuses
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