Author Topic: Where's the best layback in NH?  (Read 4822 times)

Offline John Ski

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #30 on: November 01, 2012, 10:16:59 PM »
I think you could practice laybacking on any vertical crack that you would normally jam and it would different whether you faced left or right. An easy jam crack could be a strenuous layback.
"Thems that dies will be the lucky ones" - Capt. Long John Silver

Offline JHandren

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #31 on: November 05, 2012, 10:46:11 PM »
"as jimmy S was working it..ground up"....Hi John, are you saying that Jimmy was working Fall From Grace ground up?

Or anyone else for that matter, they're weren't any other bolts on it before Chris and I rap bolted it. Its a 120ft route and the point of no return is about 20' up with all the business being well above that, so I'm not sure how anyone could have been trying it in any significant way.

Offline strandman

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #32 on: November 06, 2012, 10:29:37 AM »
I say working as a relative term... working to TRY getting bolts in. Rain, hail, the usual Cannon stuff

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #33 on: November 07, 2012, 10:56:29 AM »
Is there a climb I can TR to work this technique? 

Just a reflexion

The number of post is 32 and the number of people reading it is 430. That's means that approximately 430/32 people read it (around fifteen person follow the discussion).

At the begining, the question was very simple: a climb to work layback technique. We have ggood answer and after a while, we can understand that many route have layback movement and there is also many place where we can work that technique.

At the end, some one talking about bolt (sport section) on a route that a handfull of person can do. There is nothing about trad normal person. I mean some one who begin to climb, work fourty hours, can't have the ten or fifteen hours of training to be able to climb 5.12, except by cheating (knowing the move previously, making it many time by trying the route, red sanding it in making the movement fast to not be burned before the end of the route).

In the old time, there is more like fifty person listening to a discussion around the cliff (we didn't have internet) I remember to listen about climbing in a wet situation where they said that it was not the feet that are more sleepery, but the hand that didn't stick to the rock (meaning that tope roping in a wet day could be a good exercise for feet works).

Did the person who write things think that some people like to join or follow a discussion if the discussion is at there level? Are experience climber supposed to ask the good question to improve the safety of climbing?... and are young people supposed to talk to see if the techniques that they use are safe?     
« Last Edit: November 07, 2012, 03:04:44 PM by lucky luke »

Offline SA

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #34 on: November 08, 2012, 05:46:15 PM »
I saw someone layback the entire Black Crack pitch, on Cathedral about 2 months ago. Couldn't believe it. Probably a grade harder that way. At least you can rest by jamming a knee in once in a while.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #35 on: November 08, 2012, 06:24:16 PM »
OK, I understood what Steve, John, and Jerry wrote but I am clueless when it comes to what L Luke wrote.
Anyone care to translate?

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #36 on: November 08, 2012, 06:31:19 PM »
Sorry Soon, I don't speak Jive.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #37 on: November 08, 2012, 07:25:50 PM »
Champ, the OP asked for something hard to work his technique. That is why Fall from Grace was mentioned. He didn't define "hard", so 5.12 seemed reasonable. It can be TRed after leading an easier route.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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Offline sneoh

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #38 on: November 08, 2012, 08:12:48 PM »
OK, I understood Mark, too.  :)
Is that (TR FFG) what LL (aka Champ) wrote about?

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #39 on: November 09, 2012, 03:33:13 AM »
Is there a climb I can TR to work this technique? 

Just a reflexion 

reflexion: careful or long consideration or thought


When I red the post after the one of SA, that I respect, I thing that I used a round meaning for reflexion.

To work: Activity involving mental or physical effort done in order to achieve a purpose or result

to work a route: activity involving physical effort done in order to achieve a route.
to work a layback: activity involving physical effort done in order to achieve a technique call layback.

It is so stupid the idea of working a layback in a 5.12. if they didn't know what is a layback at 5.12...

no reflexion, superficial rule...but wrote to humiliate the other

I hate that


Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #40 on: November 09, 2012, 07:52:38 AM »
"Reflexion" is more commonly spelled "reflection " nowadays, Luke, especially in American English. (not a put-down)

To your point about 5.12, you are making incorrect assumptions of the intent. It wasn't to insult or 'one-up' at all. He didn't say he was a beginner. To go back to the example of slabs, I might ask if anybody knew of a hard slab I could TR to work on my technique. That doesn't mean that I don't already have some skills under my belt.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #41 on: November 09, 2012, 12:00:07 PM »
To go back to the example of slabs, I might ask if anybody knew of a hard slab I could TR to work on my technique. That doesn't mean that I don't already have some skills under my belt.

I can understand that:
                                a beginer learn how to push with his feet and learn where he is going to fall whe he work laybacking technique

                                an intermediate learn how to place his body in equilibrum and when he most use a layback technique. He can also learn how to place a pro in a hard situation or to remove it if he follow a trad partner

                                an advance climber will learn how and when to use his power, particularly to estimate how long he will be ablle to keep is strenght to do the move.

As a climber learn gradually those technique by training outdoor and master it...What do you think he can learn in working a technique at expert level?


Offline sneoh

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #42 on: November 09, 2012, 12:17:52 PM »
What do you think he can learn in working a technique at expert level?
Closer to perfection in that particular technique, for one thing.
One progresses not only by learning new techniques but also improving upon the ones one already knows (but not so well that there is no more room left for improvement).

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #43 on: November 09, 2012, 02:23:33 PM »
Back to the point- fall from Grace is not a good choice, it's a super hard arete, not a training layback.


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Offline bubbalee

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Re: Where's the best layback in NH?
« Reply #44 on: November 09, 2012, 03:47:24 PM »
I know its not a toprope but try RAVEN CRACK 5.9 cannon cliff