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Author Topic: The Black Dike  (Read 1547 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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The Black Dike
« on: November 07, 2012, 08:40:00 AM »
I know lots of folks belittle this route calling it the black hike and that it gets soloed regularly but INMOP it is an amazeing climb.  It has always been a great experience and a challange for me every time that I have ventured up there. The front cover  says it all! 8)
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Offline eyebolter

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2012, 10:20:10 AM »
I've been retired from ice climbing for 20+ years, but am glad to have done that route.   I was scared.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #2 on: November 07, 2012, 10:48:58 AM »
absolutely great climb in any conditions...
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Offline neiceclimber

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2012, 11:22:43 AM »
Great climb, one of my personal favorites.
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Offline OldEric

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2012, 11:57:38 AM »
Quote from: eyebolter on November 07, 2012, 10:20:10 AM
I've been retired from ice climbing for 20+ years, but am glad to have done that route.   I was scared.

ditto - I think the one and only time I did it was 1993.  Using tools from 1975.  It wasn't easy.
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Offline Jeff

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #5 on: November 07, 2012, 02:16:23 PM »
To anyone who calls it the Black Hike, for a more interesting challenge, I'll be happy to loan out my tools used on the 3rd ascent in early Feb of '73. They can then have a go at it  "old style" with the early Salewa screws, warthogs, hexes, a first generation 70cm Chouinard piolet and a Chouinard alpine hammer. :-* After almost 40 years climbing since, in NE, and abroad, that ascent with that gear (and my skill set at the time) still ranks as one of the most serious climbs I've done. :-\ No post climb beer has ever tasted better (and there have been a lot of them)!
« Last Edit: November 07, 2012, 02:18:47 PM by Jeff »
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #6 on: November 07, 2012, 02:48:12 PM »
Eric Marshal enjoying the pleasures of Cannon. One of most Rad climbing days ever for me. I got hit by a bunch of these powder avalanches while leading Fafnir earlier in the afternoon.  I got to follow this pitch in the dark and lead the last pitch in total darkness.  Really fun!
« Last Edit: November 07, 2012, 02:51:20 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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DLottmann

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2012, 06:19:10 PM »
Man Fafnir is wicked... I grabbed this shot of my buddy Travis on the 1st pitch back in 2004...



3rd pitch was my lead and I'm not sure I've ever been so scared... it was a windy COLD day up there and I couldn't get even a stubbie in on the 3rd pitch...
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #8 on: November 09, 2012, 06:55:39 PM »
Nice Photo!  I led that middle pitch w/ the powder avalanches hitting me every 15 min. You had to really hang on and the whole cliff was plastered with wet snow so you could not tell what was ice or rock. I ended up bailing from the 3rd pitch due to cowardice. We then rapped all the way down to get our packs and climbed out the Black dike with darkness catching us on the 2nd pitch. Really fun day.
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