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The Cormier-Magness Route

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Admin Al:
So I went out and climbed the first 4 pitches of The Cormier-Magness Route today with Jeff Lea. It was very nice climbing, tho it had a few obstacles... We started up at about 1:30. I led the first 3 pitches. P 1 is obviously the first pitch of Beginner's, to the tree. Then you step out right and climb just left of the arete. There is very minimal gear in the whole pitch. Fortunately the climbing is moderate and the rock of a high quality. The Wheat Thin Flake is appropriately named. It is very thin and takes very minimal gear. When I say minimal, I mean minimal. I think I got in 1 piece of gear, plus clipped the 3 bolts, in the whole 190'! (More about the gear in general later.) The next pitch, the Cajun Washboard pitch, again has great rock but pretty minimal gear. At one point you have to step across some moss. Fortunately there is a bolt nearby. The moss was wet and quite cold, adding to the "spice". The last pitch, The Open Book, had better gear in some places, yet in others had none. Jeff did a great job leading this pitch and it was wet and honestly nasty. At one point there was actually ice covered moss! In fact there were a couple of places where I'm sure that there was "black ice" where I was standing as my feet slipped around. I was glad that pitch wasn't mine! I'm sure it wouldn't be a big deal in the summer, certainly no more than a lot of other Whitehorse climbs.

All in all it was an enjoyable outing. It was quite chilly, but that was to be expected since it was in the shade. However I really do have to note that this is IMNSHO NOT a 5.6 climb for 5.6 leaders. Lots of Whitehorse climbs are runout, and this one is absolutely in that category - maybe even a little more than most. I would say this is a 5.6 climb for 5.8 leaders. Regardless it's a nice addition to the cliff and I'm looking forward to finishing it in the spring, tho I'm pretty sure that the first 4 pitches are the best..

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=1132

DLottmann:

--- Quote from: Admin Al on November 16, 2012, 09:24:59 PM ---Then you step out left and climb just left of the arete. There is very minimal gear in the whole pitch.
--- End quote ---

You mean "step right" and climb just left of the arete... I wouldn't call it super run-out... you get a bolt soon after the pitch begin's, then an awesome horizontal (or tree), then some nice padding to a bolt, then that kinda creaky flake... the real run out starts after that flake IMO, but... if it feels too spicy to can step right off the arete and into a right facing corner (I think you are now on Beginner's easy variation) climb some chill 5.4, and make a weird move over that little bush to get back to the anchor... it avoids the solid 5.6 runout, but it's more aesthetic staying out on the arete...

If you compare the Cajun Washboard pitch to nearby Beginner's pitch 4 (no gear from anchor to anchor) it is pretty reasonable, with the business being that mossy bolt protected traverse... I can imagine moisture would suck there...

I think the 1st half of the 4th pitch is great... and the last 30 feet... but that long traverse is a bit blah for that pitch to be worth it if not going for the top IMO... and the upper pitches are cooler than I thought they would be...

Admin Al:
yes, I did mean RIGHT...

Admin Al:
while you CAN get a piece of gear in at the top of the flake, it's bogus. the flake will assuredly fall off if you were to fall on the gear. and you are probably 50' out from the previous bolt 'till you get to the next bolt.

hey look - for me the whole thing's no biggie, with the exception of the icy moss in a couple of places. I'm just saying that your garden-variety 5.6 leader is going to be at her limit.

DLottmann:

--- Quote from: Admin Al on November 16, 2012, 09:58:27 PM ---while you CAN get a piece of gear in at the top of the flake, it's bogus. the flake will assuredly fall off if you were to fall on the gear. and you are probably 50' out from the previous bolt 'till you get to the next bolt.

hey look - for me the whole thing's no biggie, with the exception of the icy moss in a couple of places. I'm just saying that your garden-variety 5.6 leader is going to be at her limit.

--- End quote ---

You can get a shallow good small cam in the crack below the flake that is pretty good... .3 BD I think... not an obvious placement, but better than the placement at the top. I agree if 5.6 slab is your limit this route will scare ya ;)

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