General > Rock Climbing: Sport

Rising awareness about manky fixed draws

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sneoh:
https://www.facebook.com/RrgFixedGearEthicsInitiative

It is a conversation worth having, not just for Rumney but all NE crags that have fixed/perma draws or "cleaning biners". 

RRG had its close calls in 2011 and we had ours at Rumney in 2012 (Man Overboard incident).  Be safe people, "do the right" thing" by removing/replacing manky fixed draws/biners, and take responsibility for your own safety.  I will be carrying a few steel biners with me to Rumney beginning next season.  Steel biners can cost as little as $10/ea (same price as Petzl Spirit) and last significantly longer but NOT FOREVER, so pay attention!

M_Sprague:
It is an important topic, Soon. Personally, I think perma draws should be kept to an absolute minimum for aesthetic reasons, but also so thier condition can be checked regularly and kept in good shape. I don't give a damn about the ethics of them as far as the convenience factor, in fact I like the convenience, but for those other reasons, they drive me nuts.

I think people need to feel a lot more comfortable removing worn looking gear, even if they donít have a replacement handy. It is much better that somebody has to lower off a route half way up because a draw is missing and they didnít see to bring their own than they fall to their death because their rope gets cut.

Iíll use your link in that thread on MP.

sneoh:

--- Quote from: M_Sprague on November 19, 2012, 09:15:40 PM ---Personally, I think perma draws should be kept to an absolute minimum for aesthetic reasons, but also so thier condition can be checked regularly and kept in good shape.

--- End quote ---
Exactly how I feel Mark; gave you a +1.

strandman:
I remember a Brit (sorry name) at AF aaround '88 or so   the fixed draws (first time I had ever seen them)

"shit. somebody had a real epic"

pappy:

--- Quote from: strandman on November 26, 2012, 06:54:52 PM ---I remember a Brit (sorry name) at AF aaround '88 or so   the fixed draws (first time I had ever seen them)

"shit. somebody had a real epic"

--- End quote ---

 :D

yeah, when I was growing up it was just understood that anything left on a climb was booty. Fixed draws are a blight; if the sport weenies actually had to take their own draws and clip the bolts they might find those old .12s and .13s are suddenly a lot harder, and a bit more like climbing.

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