General > New Rock Routes


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These routes are a few years old now (climbed in 2009 and 2011 by Dave Weston, Chris Magness, and Zeb Jakub) and are beginning to collect some dust.  Because of the effort that was required to establish them and the high quality of climbing, I'd hate to see them grow over.  They're quite good and deserve traffic.  See page 226 of the Handren guide.

The V Buttress:

Superb face and crack climbing on an extremely exposed portion of Cathedral.  All climbs are easily top roped and dry very quickly after a rain.  FOF's hand crack is only 5.6 and wildly positioned,  and a good TR link into the moderate .10 face above.  If you're doing this and don't want to pull too hard, stop lowering at the bottom of the crack.

Access by walking down the climbers’ trail a brief distance until it steepens.  Turn toward the cliff at a rock slab on the trail.  Trend left across another little slab, then back right across a widening ledge to a tree with a rappel station.  Bring 60M ropes.

To TR:  Rappel 30’ to a 2 bolt anchor for Crabnebula and Forest of Fanghorn’s hand crack.  Rappel 80’ to a 2 bolt anchor for Triplet.

To lead:  Rappel 200’ to a small ledge and a two bolt anchor.  It is possible to reach this stance with one rope via a mid point anchor.   It is recommended leaving a line fixed to the tree (KNOT THE END!!), which can also serve as one long rappel line.  Knot the end of this rope!

To rappel:  You can not reach the ground with one rope.  You’ll need two ropes to rappel to the ground.  The last rappel is a free hanging rappel from Bonfire Ledge over Cathedral Cave.

Working Man’s Lament:  5.11
This is a free variation of the last to pitches of Forest of Fanghorn.  Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.  Standard rack, doubles of #.75 and #1.

P1: Climb a 5.9 hand crack for 15’ until it turns into a water groove at a horizontal (the original route traverses in from the White Eye chimney via this horizontal). Layback the water groove (crux, 5.11) past two bolts to a second, more prominent horizontal.  Traverse left across this horizontal to a hand crack.  Climb the crack (5.6) until it ends.  Build a gear anchor at a good stance.  (5.11) 120’

P2: Traverse up and right to a large ledge and two bolt anchor, passing bolts on Crabnebula for protection (5.9). 30’.  Or, instead of traversing finish up the second pitch of Crabnebula (5.10b) 100’

P3:  The original route followed a dirty, loose corner on the left (5.5).  Or, finish up the second pitch of Triplet (5.10b)  80’

Triplet:  5.11+   Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.  Cams from .3 to a #1.  Doubles of #’s .4, .75

P1:  Start as for FOF.  Climb a 5.9 hand crack for 15’ until it turns into a water groove at a horizontal.  Layback the water groove (5.11) past two bolts to a second, more prominent horizontal (gear), mantle up onto a slab past the horizontal and continue to follow the disappearing water groove past two bolts (crux at second bolt).  Step up and right at second bolt to a flake system and a small cam placement.  Continue up and left to another bolt.  Climb straight up to a ledge, another bolt and another hard mantle.  Run it out on easy terrain to a 2 bolt anchor on a large ledge.  (5.11+) 120’

P2:  Friction climb straight up past 3 bolts (5.10b).  Follow dirty but easy rock the top.  A variation has been climbed to this pitch at a similar grade.  Step right after the first bolt into a flake.  Protect with micro cams and step back left to the third bolt (5.10a R).  80’

Crabnebula:  5.11 a/b   This line generally follows a dike just right of FOF’s hand crack, is very well protected, and is a good line for a 5.10 leader to push their ability.  Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.  Bring a few medium sized cams and stoppers for a gear anchor.  Many draws, including extendables.

It is possible to climb the meat of Crabnebula in one 200’ rope stretching pitch to a two bolt anchor, then scramble to the rappel tree.  Pitching it out allows for better communication in cruxy areas:

P1:  A sustained pitch.  Make a committing move off the belay to a bolt up and left.  Using holds on the arête, follow bolts around a bulge to a horizontal (pin), just right of FOF’s hand crack.  Pull another bulge and follow bolts and a dike to a stance on the left (same as FOF).  Build a gear anchor.  (5.11 a/b) 120’

P2:  Follow bolts straight up the slab until the angle eases.  Belay at a two bolt anchor or continue up to the tree (5.10b) 100’

This stuff sounds awesome... I haven't checked the new guide book but a quality topo helping us find these would definitely send traffic there... that's a section of the cliff it is hard to get very familiar with... is that near Al's Late Night Movie something route I checked out 10+ years ago?

Talk about a massive cleaning effort !! great !
That section of cliff, by Fangorn was filthy, filthy

so much at cathedral that never gets done.. i really like the rapping into the routes as well

I'm not familiar with Al's late night movie.  The V Buttress is 150' right of The Bridge and the Pendulum roof area, and can serve as a rap line to access routes off of Bonfire, or to reach the ground-- the last rap is free hanging over the cave.  My scanner is down, this is about the best I can do with a topo for now, I'll have something better by spring.

In the same area and via rappel is the upper White Eye, really good climbing.


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