General > Ice & Winter Climbing

Four day game plan

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triguy:
If you had four days to climb ice in the grade 3/4 range in and around north Conway what would you get after?

DMan:
A bit broad of a question... help me narrow my suggestions by adding some info;

1) What, if anything, have you already done in New England?

2) What is your solid ice leading ability?

3) Do you want lots of cragging or longer alpine gully routes?

JJ Jameson:
Assuming everything was in, and I was fit and had a willing partner?
I'd hit Frankenstein on one day, or even two, and climb Pegasus, Chia, Standard, Dracula left side. Additional routes there, Waterfall, Smear, Hobbit Couloir, in no particular order.
I'd get into Huntington Ravine and get up Pinnacle.
Cinema Gully to upper Hitchcock on Mt. Willard.
Shoestring for a longer adventure in Crawford Notch.

Combine these, and you'd be getting shorter pure waterfall ice, long cliff side climbs, big alpine climbs in dramatic settings. Quite a bit of variety.

triguy:
I will lead up to a 4 pretty solidly on crappy Pennsylvania ice.

Routes I have led in new England:

 standard, waterfall, walk/way in the forest at Frankenstein. cinema, elephants head, and silver cascades in Crawford notch. pinnacle, damnation, Yale in Huntington ravine. Texaco slab and other stuff I don't know names of but were steep and short.

Would like to mix it up with cragging and longer alpine routes.

DMan:

--- Quote from: triguy on November 26, 2012, 04:52:12 PM ---I will lead up to a 4 pretty solidly on crappy Pennsylvania ice.

Routes I have led in new England:

 standard, waterfall, walk/way in the forest at Frankenstein. cinema, elephants head, and silver cascades in Crawford notch. pinnacle, damnation, Yale in Huntington ravine. Texaco slab and other stuff I don't know names of but were steep and short.

Would like to mix it up with cragging and longer alpine routes.

--- End quote ---

That is super helpful. I would think Dracula and Shoestring Gully should be at the top of your list. Penguin, Pegasus and Chia should be close behind... Smear if it is in.... maybe something like this...

Day 1: Standard Route (right variation out the cave if in good shape, maybe traverse over to Penguin P2) Finish the day TRing harder stuff at Hanging Gardens or grab a later run up Elephant's Head.

Day 2: Shoestring. One of the best long gully climbs in the East IMO. Plan a full day if not soloing it...

Day 3: Hitchcock Gully, play on the East Face Slabs, finish up Upper Hitchcock or Cleft...

Day 4: Maybe tick off Willey's Slide, or bump this to day one as a warm up...

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