But the the flaw in LL's logic occurs when he blames all the woes of the world on not following the pure trad ethics.
I don't blame any body because he didn't follow pure trad ethic.
In Quebec, we have the english and french language. Assimilation is done by people who said that more people talk both language and it is not important the language you talk. Speak english, so every people in the world will understand you, it is the language of the money, etc. Immigrant just want to speak english, some people think like them and, slowly but surely, assimilation is done.
We talk about Patrick Edlinger recently. He told that it was not acceptable to work a route before, but more climber begin to think that we most do it. He is the father of sport climber, or the one who begin the mediatisation of that kind of ethic. I just asked those we the same ethic, an he is a respectable climber, to write it in sport section so people will understand that it is different than trad. That it is not acceptable to work or route in the tradition of trad climbing.
Even if I understand the critique an even if I climbed recompense many times. There is always some thing different...me!. Actually I feel older than 5.10, but... So bottom up as much as you can.
Example of exercise. In second, try to climb bombardment, but stay always on the left side of the crack!!!!
Lead and try to take as few pro as it is to stay safe!!! There is so much to do.