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Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 6367 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #165 on: December 08, 2012, 09:12:11 PM »

For me it completly depends on the feel of the climb. predominantly sport climb with one or two gear placements and I am developing it top down then chances are it is going to be a sport climb. If I put it up GU chances are it will stay mixed. If on the otherhand it it is mostly sport TD project but has an obvious trad feature that takes several gear placements in a row  I will make it a mixed climb. I put up a 100ft 10d that is all sport except for the last 15 ft was a beautifull  left faceing corner with a finger crack in the back of it. I simply could not make myself bolt that crack. The corner is only 5.7 on a 10d. I carried a yellow BD TCU the first few times I led it but none of us has ever placed the piece. You do NOT want to fall there but your Not going to fall there if you got that far up it and I tell people that it is an optional gear placement.    My climb. My rules......
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #166 on: December 08, 2012, 09:16:59 PM »

Very sensible, Trad.  Sounds like a nice climb, love the 100-foot part.  I got to make it out to climb in VT sometime.
Your climb, your rules, damn straight!!
RRG has quite a few sport routes that have "optional gear placements". We skip them for the most part to add a little spice. :)
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #167 on: December 08, 2012, 09:17:58 PM »

Seems like most of the mixed climbs @ Rumny grew more bolts. No Money Down, etc..  Many years ago I used to bring a rack to Rumny.  I matured a bit and just bring draws now on the rare occasions that I get over there.. When in Rome :-*
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #168 on: December 08, 2012, 09:30:56 PM »

Ha, I too first led NMD when it had only one bolt!  I led it a bunch of times last year on all bolts.  Quite a different feel I have to admit. 
Masterpiece also got a low bolt added.  I used to place a brown tricam as the first piece.  Now I just stand tall and clip the added glue-in for the 1st piece.  About the same both ways.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

ed_esmond

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #169 on: December 08, 2012, 10:28:44 PM »

...I Want to see a real trad bear...

as long as we don't have to see a bare trad...

i know it's tres* "traditional" to climb trad routes naked as a jaybird, (think: vulgarians in the gunks and the newest vermont climbing guide with a photo of gratuitous "full frontal" nudity.)

the reality of seeing most "trad" climbers naked is more than tres* disturbing.(imagine john strand, naked, run out, on a slab: the only rational response could be: "oh the humanity....")

ed e

* french for "very..." (being bilingual just so "luckyluc" won't feel like he's been "assimilated...." )

ps. "posting police:" did i get the "..." thing correct?   
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pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Admin Al

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #170 on: December 08, 2012, 10:54:20 PM »

Masterpiece also got a low bolt added.  I used to place a brown tricam as the first piece.  Now I just stand tall and clip the added glue-in for the 1st piece.  About the same both ways.

that's interesting... I used to do it years ago with no piece, then I wised up and started using a cam. it definitely is better with a piece of pro. [grin] adding teh bolt is probably the right thing considering it's Rumney after all...
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #171 on: December 09, 2012, 10:41:19 AM »

...I Want to see a real trad bear...

ps. "posting police:" did i get the "..." thing correct?

Perfect
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #172 on: December 09, 2012, 10:47:32 AM »

Here's your trad bear
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apbt1976

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #173 on: December 09, 2012, 11:14:46 AM »

Is not Champ our local "trad bear". See link below if you are confused.

For the record i am not a homaphob not even a little. I can take  joke and keep things in perspective. If my joke offends i apologize in advance...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bear_%28gay_culture%29

best thing we got going these days w/ no snow/winter.  I Want to see a real trad bear 8)
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JBrochu

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #174 on: December 09, 2012, 11:34:59 AM »

...I Want to see a real trad bear...

ps. "posting police:" did i get the "..." thing correct?

Perfect


WTF you quoted the entire damn thing in your response! The tubes are now broken! 
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #175 on: December 09, 2012, 05:05:56 PM »

For the record i am not a homaphob not even a little. I can take  joke and keep things in perspective. If my joke offends i apologize in advance...

Me and my woman not very appreciate that kind of joke

It is irrespectfull and the fact that you appologize is really that you want to offend other people

Ounce you don't have any argument to discuss in a trad secttion, humiliating other with false rumor is your exact value
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #176 on: December 09, 2012, 05:10:50 PM »

For me it completly depends on the feel of the climb. predominantly sport climb.....If I put it up GU chances are it will stay mixed. If on the otherhand it it is mostly sport TD project but has an obvious trad feature that takes several gear placements in a row  I will make it a mixed climb......My climb. My rules......

And if it is a trad cliff where every body respect and like the ethic of trad????

On the murder wall, SA protect the route with one bolt at the end of the traverse. It was trad route and aid route too. What is the differences in the ethic with sport?
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #177 on: December 09, 2012, 05:52:06 PM »

If it is a trad cliff I will do the FA ground up but I will fix it if nessicary. If the bolts are not in the right places due to whatever reasons  I will fix or add bolts to my own route. I will replace fixed pins with bolts if I deem it nessicary to make a 5 star climb. Heck I might even switch out the pins for bolt simply because I need the pins for annother project. My Climb= My rules

According to our silly Rules the FA owns the climb for life.  (unless of course it is an aid line in which case ownership transfers to the party that frees the line) I take the FA responsibility very seriously and try to make the best climb possible so that those who come after me do not have to deal with a hack job..
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #178 on: December 09, 2012, 06:18:37 PM »

Damn right Trad- my climb, my rules. you don't like it, go do your own route

Remember LL thr f/a of Mordor Wall was well before sport/trad.. back when it was called "CLIMBING"
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #179 on: December 09, 2012, 06:48:52 PM »

and a bunch of bolts have been added for free climbing attempts. free trumps aid so that is legal....
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