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Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 5642 times)

M_Sprague

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #45 on: November 30, 2012, 06:56:40 PM »

Is that really sport, John? Top roping proceeded sport, so it must be trad. I don't think we can give you credit.
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #46 on: November 30, 2012, 09:40:04 PM »

i learned to climb at the Quarries  Tr and solo.... maybe i was effected
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OldEric

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #47 on: November 30, 2012, 10:14:39 PM »

i learned to climb at the Quarries  Tr and solo.... maybe i was effected


Maybe????
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old_school

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #48 on: December 01, 2012, 07:14:31 AM »

i learned to climb at the Quarries  Tr and solo.... maybe i was effected


Maybe????

Oh no....I started on top rope too back in the late 70's. I had no idea I was being lead by the hand to the darkside...the sport demons lie!!!  :-[

And yes, that route needs and anchor! And it would still be one of the burliest 5.10 trad routes out there.
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Jeff

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #49 on: December 01, 2012, 08:05:15 AM »

Is it a toprope if someone else leads? :-\ OMG, I'm not as cool as I thought ??? But is it trad 8) or shhhh  ( the dreaded word that shall not be mentioned)  :-X and all this time I thought it was just climbing! My bad :-[
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #50 on: December 01, 2012, 08:15:18 AM »

It is just climbing, folks, unless you are drinking the same KoolAid Champ is ......
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #51 on: December 01, 2012, 11:48:44 AM »

i learned to climb at the Quarries  Tr and solo.... maybe i was effected


Maybe????

Ha- and you ????
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #52 on: December 01, 2012, 12:26:53 PM »

Is that really sport, John? Top roping proceeded sport, so it must be trad. I don't think we can give you credit.

A second in trad is also a sport climber? Before a team was mostly a first who make the hard move and a second who climb after. The second don't have all that stress of the first and soon climb faster an in better style, except when he won't have to bring the bag.

We can think that sport ethic came from the long hours that a second have to wait before he could climb. It is boring to be at the belay when your leader take for ever to climb...and it is worse when you know that you can on sight the move in few minutes. But I don't think that it is the real reason to it. Trad is more associate with hiking. I went to ?caracoa? mountain and we walked in the woods for a while, thrue ice section and finely climbed the rocky last part. It was a fun trip and both my woman and me enjoy to be in the wild whoever hiked first.

I most say that for a 5.11 climber, doing a route with just one move of 5.11 can be boring and if your partner is a gym freshly climber of 5.10...with no experiences, it can't be worse. Those guy had the opportunity to climb at there level with more than one or two move, if it so, in a same pitch. As they climb bottom up, they can try a route many time before they finally get the solution and few new routes appears every years. As they do it bottom up, they don't care about  falling fifteen or fourteen feet from where they loose contact with the rock. As for crack in the wood, SA said:  "Seriously, at the end of the pitch, you are 15-20 feet out from the base. If you came off, halfway up, you would never get back on. Not worth the effort, to set up a top rope, but a great route". And strandman said that we most place a bolt for the last fifteen or twenty feet to not fall...in the air. For me, it is like changing crack in the wood for crack to the bolt...a non sens. But it is my opinion. (a hiking trail can be fun. They certainly did a belay on natural gear)

Trying to imitate the strongest is good. But in that case, many people try to imitate the 5.11 trad climber in short route before knowing how to protect themselve. They skip those knowledge and, has a solution, place a bolt. It is the same thing as seconding a route, when a guide teach to his student how to make a move and they wasn't able to do it. They try, and try and try again to be able to climb. The popularity of that situation is obvious an many climber with child find a way to be with other friend, share stressfull exercise and chalenge at there level. The evolution of sport take a different option for the 5.6 or 5.7 level where, in one case the climber opt for leading higher level on bolt and where the trad climber opt for aid climbing to learn how to place pro, seconding multi pitch, and try there first lead on a free bolt cliff.

Unfortunately, some bad people just humiliate climber of 5.6 or 5.7 level who want to trad climb. There is no differences between trad and sport...but train for sport!!! They said that climbing began at 5.9. They talk as if they were the master of the rock, but are the first to critizise those trad climber who lead a route bottom up with no injury in a fall...even if the fall is of 40 feet like crack in the wood. There is no differences, but when a little girl of 12 years climbed half dome, they don't understand that trad is also fun and different in the way you learn your safety.

it is two different ethic and both can be fun. I prefer a hike in the wood with friend to relax... sport prefer a gymnast or martial art competition with intimidation (look at the post of...). I just said: choose the way you like to climb! and wrote your post to respect the people who don't share the way you choose to climb.       
« Last Edit: December 01, 2012, 12:36:30 PM by lucky luke »
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #53 on: December 01, 2012, 05:35:58 PM »

what I SAID was-- perhaps the anchor for CITW should be where it is now and NOT at the top ofthe cliff.. if you do the climb, you will see why.
It has nothing to do with falling or gear or anything else- nothing
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #54 on: December 01, 2012, 05:55:35 PM »

what I SAID was-- perhaps the anchor for CITW should be where it is now and NOT at the top ofthe cliff.. if you do the climb, you will see why.
It has nothing to do with falling or gear or anything else- nothing
Maybe I will try CITW next summer. It could be a solution to have a rap anchor if it doesn't change the chalenge of the route. I did arrowhead arrete in yosemite and without bolt, we were probably death at this moment. The bolt was for the rap anchor very far from the summit. There was nothing on the four square feet summit. We just place the rope around it to return in the valley.

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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #55 on: December 01, 2012, 08:21:17 PM »

Is that really sport, John? Top roping proceeded sport, so it must be trad. I don't think we can give you credit.
...
Unfortunately, some bad people just humiliate climber of 5.6 or 5.7 level who want to trad climb. There is no differences between trad and sport...but train for sport!!! They said that climbing began at 5.9. They talk as if they were the master of the rock, but are the first to critizise those trad climber who lead a route bottom up with no injury in a fall...even if the fall is of 40 feet like crack in the wood. There is no differences, but when a little girl of 12 years climbed half dome, they don't understand that trad is also fun and different in the way you learn your safety.
...

Who are these "bad" people? I've never met any 5.6 climber who was given shit for climbing trad.... must be a french thing...

And the little girl was left after the climb while her father retrieved the packs a few hours away... that is a bit off and has NOTHING to do with "trad", unless leaving minors alone in Grizzy country is part of being a true trad climber...

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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #56 on: December 01, 2012, 10:39:46 PM »

And the little girl was left after the climb while her father retrieved the packs a few hours away... that is a bit off and has NOTHING to do with "trad", unless leaving minors alone in Grizzy country is part of being a true trad climber...

 Bears are sleeping in winter??? Black bears, not grizzly

I bet the guy think that if he talked about leaving his daughter voluntarily, it will concentrate the critic where every body will understand it don't make any sens, but have a lot of scary impact!

The lake was clearly frozen and the bear will not awake after a while even if the weather is mild.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #57 on: December 02, 2012, 07:20:43 AM »

Isa and I told an 8 yr old kid that if the bear came and tried to climb into our tree stand and eat us that we would dangle him down by the feet and the bear would eat him first because bears think little kids are more tasty then adults and that the bear would then have a full tummy and let us live.. does this make us bad sport climbers or bAD tard climbers?
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xcrag_corex

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #58 on: December 02, 2012, 04:18:57 PM »

....and if the Bear eats you....if he does it for fun (a sporting good time) or does it to sustain life (traditional hunting methods) is it more respectable one way or the other? :-\
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #59 on: December 02, 2012, 05:45:58 PM »

I'm thinking that our black bears are pretty small so by the time he finished eating Cody he would have had a full tummy and gone back into his cave for a nap. So probobly a Trad bear 8)
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