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Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 6032 times)

meclimber

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #60 on: December 03, 2012, 05:21:14 PM »

Does Champ read what he writes?  Or does he just write and write to torture us.  Does he know about sarcasm and irony.  I've had the pleasure of climbing in Quebec with some natives in the tre blant area and they seemed fine.  Hell, it was a mixed bolted and traditional crag.  Everyone seemed cool.  Neat little crag too.
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Jon Howard

strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #61 on: December 03, 2012, 06:51:29 PM »

Maybe back to the point here-

I assume you have done the Seventh Seal thing so..

You can work the Avenger area in winter as well as the Airation Buttress. other good places for winter are -Albany Slabs and some places at Humphries.

i ahve done Future Shock in literally every month
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #62 on: December 03, 2012, 07:57:27 PM »

Ya, but what about the bears?
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #63 on: December 03, 2012, 08:33:24 PM »

I've had the pleasure of climbing in Quebec with some natives in the tre blant area and they seemed fine.  Hell, it was a mixed bolted and traditional crag.  Everyone seemed cool.  Neat little crag too.

Yes we have very good climber and cliff too. One of my climbing partner for a while was a sport climber who climbed with Louis Babin, a name that many american climber know. He like to do sport route on bolt and it is fun to climb with him, althought my hands was not strong enought because carpal tunel problem.

The fact is that, because our trad season are short, three months, most climber are sport climber. We had three death this year, and the climbing community in quebec is not so important. We are seven millions of people and a very small part of them climb...and less of them trad climb.

We can say that an avalanche is impredictable, we can say that lightning doesn't happen often, we can say that at la pomme d'or the guy felt for...

When you dig to find an answer, you find that the ethic is often the reason of it. The year before, in Quebec, we also have two or three death!!!

You talk about torture because I asked you to write sport ethic question in sport section. I talk about death, I talk for a parent who don't understand what happened to her child, death in a climbing accident because they don't stay tie in to the anchor in a portaledge. She listened to those people.. I prefer to stop 
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xcrag_corex

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ed_esmond

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #65 on: December 03, 2012, 09:48:05 PM »

Ya, but what about the bears?

if they're skinny (no ham sammiches...):  i'd say they were "sport bears..."

if they're sporting beanies: i'd call 'um, "boulder bears."

ed "bearly there" e
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pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

xcrag_corex

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #66 on: December 03, 2012, 10:15:08 PM »

Lets bring this back to the beginning and break it down for ya Luke:

"What would be some good routes for working via self-belayed toprope in the 5.9 to 5.10 range?

I'm looking to pick 2 trad routes, one slab/face and one crack or mixed--as projects for next year for days when I get stuck without a partner. Ideally both routes would have good enough pro to eventually be led. (Pro doesn't have to be perfect but nothing R for me.)"

1. This is an EXPERIENCED climber Looking for routes to work "FOR DAYS WHEN I GET STUCK W/OUT A PARTNER"
So In your eyes to stay true TRAD in this Circumstance he would need to Solo? Its in the TRAD section because he wants TRAD routes he can eventually lead with a partner present.

2. By TRing the route first, doesn't negate the fact that when he goes on the sharp end IT WILL STILL BE LEAD WITH TRADITIONAL GEAR.

3. THIS HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH ACCIDENTS RESULTING IN DEATH.....it is someone looking to SAFELY hone there skills when they can't get out with someone else.


Oh yeah, keep smiting buddy. You're making my day 8)
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-Jeremy Ballou

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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #67 on: December 03, 2012, 10:43:42 PM »

Is the practice of yoyo-ing to get an FA of a trad route adhering to sport ethics?
The person getting the 1st FA ground up could have TR'ed 5 feet of the route or 90 feet of it.  Where do you draw the line? 
Does this (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/airation/105920901) mean Airation might have been put up with "sport ethics"? 
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #68 on: December 04, 2012, 09:44:01 AM »

Is the practice of yoyo-ing to get an FA of a trad route adhering to sport ethics?
The person getting the 1st FA ground up could have TR'ed 5 feet of the route or 90 feet of it.  Where do you draw the line? 
Does this (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/airation/105920901) mean Airation might have been put up with "sport ethics"?

OUCH ! No, hangdogging was invented by ray Jardine in 1975, a year after Airation 8) Crimson Cringe in Yosemite was "Friended" anddogged for several days. Bachar flashed the second ascent with hexes after Jardine offered him the "secret " cams.

I always adhered to the -pull the rope strategy. no matter how much the route is seiged, the rope comes down for the pinkpoint.
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #69 on: December 04, 2012, 10:15:08 AM »

I always adhered to the -pull the rope strategy. no matter how much the route is seiged, the rope comes down for the pinkpoint.
Yup, no "sport ethics" for Strandman.  Good for you, I expected no less! :)
« Last Edit: December 04, 2012, 10:17:02 AM by sneoh »
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #70 on: December 04, 2012, 10:21:44 AM »

Seems like back in the eightys it was totally kosher to keep the rope running through the top piece.  I read that a lot of those aid climbs that got freed @ the gunks they would send one guy up as far as he could go and then lower off. annother guy would get up there and get annother piece or two in and then Lynn would go up and finish the thing . Annother FFA in the books 8) I know we did that BINTD and no one seemed to mind. these days everyone is all uptight and you have to pull the rope..
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #71 on: December 04, 2012, 10:26:35 AM »

I thought  that pulling the rope crap was sport ethics :-[ A true ham sammich, sausage, cheese eating wine drinking lederhosin whearing trad climber is all about shoulder stands, grabbing gear and upward progress to beat the storm back to the alpine hut in time to shnucksel the farmers daughter :)
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old_school

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #72 on: December 04, 2012, 10:49:51 AM »

I thought  that pulling the rope crap was sport ethics :-[ A true ham sammich, sausage, cheese eating wine drinking lederhosin whearing trad climber is all about shoulder stands, grabbing gear and upward progress to beat the storm back to the alpine hut in time to shnucksel the farmers daughter :)
+1 for you Trad!   ;D
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Jeff

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #73 on: December 04, 2012, 02:29:29 PM »

Ah yes a little schnucksel in the hayloft  ;)
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #74 on: December 04, 2012, 02:42:57 PM »

we started pulling the rope around '81 or so... having a top rope except for the last few feet seemed a bit much. True- many gunks pitches got done in siege style,  but i don't think actual hangdogging got going until later.
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