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Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 5812 times)

strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #15 on: November 29, 2012, 09:39:14 AM »

No, Don't even try to TR Crack In the Woods  !!!
It proes so well though you could work it like a sport climb.
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M_Sprague

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #16 on: November 29, 2012, 10:17:18 AM »

Jimmy Dunn was totally fine with the idea of bolted anchors on Stewat's Crack when I called him. If the top out is that bad and the tree he probably used is now dead, I bet if somebody asked him he would be fine with an anchor on Crack in the Woods. It's worth a call. He is fun to chat with anyway 8)
« Last Edit: November 29, 2012, 10:20:25 AM by M_Sprague »
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SA

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #17 on: November 29, 2012, 10:35:42 AM »

I was out at Crack in the Woods last year. Seriously, at the end of the pitch, you are 15-20 feet out from the base. If you came off, halfway up, you would never get back on. Not worth the effort, to set up a top rope, but a great route.
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #18 on: November 29, 2012, 12:05:23 PM »

i think that the normal anchor for CITW is/was a fixed gizmo at 3/4 height. HOPEFULLY is has been upgrade  some... I think it was a hex/pin combo     :-\

maybe a new belay should be here instead of the clifftop ??? I doubt jimmie  cares.. I'll ask him though.  Beware of getting the rope stuck at the lip, I have seen cams invert several times., a hex would solve the problem.

Go over to Pumping Station sometime- now THAT'S some steep
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Admin Al

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #19 on: November 29, 2012, 03:07:12 PM »

go over to Found Ledge and put up TR's on the Lumberjack Wall. lots of hard climbing and east setup.
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eyebolter

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #20 on: November 29, 2012, 05:27:31 PM »

go over to Found Ledge and put up TR's on the Lumberjack Wall. lots of hard climbing and east setup.

But the op asked for 9/10 routes, those are harder aren't they?  I remember doing lumberjack cause it was the easiest at solid 11, but maybe my memory banks are running low....

I think just go to the Slot at the practice wall at cathedral. There is never a line if you get your ass out of bed early, even on the weekend.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2012, 05:29:45 PM by eyebolter »
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xcrag_corex

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #21 on: November 29, 2012, 05:51:03 PM »

Thanks for the info for CITW. You only ever see the awesome crack in pics....not what lurks above...good to know having never been out there in person....
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Toprope Solo
« Reply #22 on: November 29, 2012, 06:19:03 PM »

I don't particularly care if you think I'm not a "true" trad climber if I choose to project some routes on toprope.

if you don't care...why don't you post this thread on the sport section!!!! You just want that the people think that they most do sport and after try trad.

As a trad climber, I like to do crack in the wood. Maybe the crack is going to be stronger than me and I will lost, maybe I will train enought to have the skill to onsight it. It is the reason why I don't try it actually. I have a chalenge just to talk about it, try8ing to see me on the cliff climbing it. I just have a little information by webster book red some time ago and I just feel all the sensation to walk to the cliff to do it. Ounce you try it, onsight is impossible.

Great diedral at poko is more at my level. I can't onsight it actually because I did the first pitch whit one of my friend. He wanted to bail after the first pitch and I was in the obligation to bail. But still. I never be in the second pitch and it look amasing.

If you ask your question in the sport section, you will have the same answer with the same person. Except that working a route is an ethic very normal in sport... It is not the ethic of trad. Trad climber like to do a route bottom up. 

I don't say don't climb it or don't do it...I don't even say that it is cheating.  I just say that it is a sport ethic and it is not because most sport climber don't make a distinction that the distinction doesn't exist.
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M_Sprague

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Toprope Solo
« Reply #23 on: November 29, 2012, 07:04:51 PM »

I like to do crack...

I think we know the problem now.


Luke, most climbers are not fixated on pigeon holing themselves into categories, analyzed down to the atomic level. They want to go out and have fun, what ever way they feel like at the moment. Even the definition of trad is not nearly as narrow as you make it.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2012, 07:20:41 PM by M_Sprague »
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #24 on: November 29, 2012, 07:47:43 PM »

No longer with bolted anchors (or so I have been told) and possibly very busy on weekends, perhaps the North End climbs are possible candidates (?).  Otherwise I think Airation (as John said) is a candidate.


Psst, Champ, here's a secret about sport climbing - onsight sends of routes while hanging one's own draws are much sought after.  And many 'sport climbers' rather not have to work routes for sends.  Isn't that just amazing?  Who would have thought, huh?  Few things in this world are as black and white as you try to make them out to be.  Chew on that for a while, will you?
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Toprope Solo
« Reply #25 on: November 29, 2012, 08:17:58 PM »

I like to do crack...

I think we know the problem now.


Luke, most climbers are not fixated on pigeon holing themselves into categories, analyzed down to the atomic level. They want to go out and have fun, what ever way they feel like at the moment. Even the definition of trad is not nearly as narrow as you make it.

or the definition of sport is not as wide as you describe it!!!

Clipping a bolt or a cam that you already know the size, the direction and without anticipating the move. We are far from a climber going to yosemite to climb arrow head arrete (5.8+).

I know a lot of people who dream to do royal arches without any previous knowledge of the cliff. In general, they won't write any thing when there is controversy. It is the reason why I am asking you to make the distinction.   

It is a good question...at a wrong place...

You always shout at loud that it is not important.

proove it, wrote it in sport and i won't bother you any more.
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JBrochu

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #26 on: November 29, 2012, 08:42:18 PM »

If you want to have a discussion about the ethics of onsight versus working routes go start your own thread please.
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #27 on: November 29, 2012, 10:23:00 PM »

If you want to have a discussion about the ethics of onsight versus working routes go start your own thread please.

the question is not about the thread, which can be very interesting for a sport climber and you will end up with so many partner than you won't need to ask the question.

The question is more than on which section of the forum is more suit to post a sport climbing question? If you ask to trad climber that make the second edition of webster book, the trad ethic, most of them will say that working a route a multi time to find how to place the pro as secure as a bolt, how to do the movement as fast as you can to avoid to be pump before the end of the route, working a route in that sense...is completely at the opposite of doing the route in less attend as possible, looking for rest to understand the move and place solid pro in lead and getting stronger to be able to have the strength to go to the top.

j brochu...you really don't know that you practice sport ethic??? 
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JBrochu

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #28 on: November 29, 2012, 10:50:30 PM »





« Last Edit: November 29, 2012, 10:53:19 PM by JBrochu »
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #29 on: November 29, 2012, 10:57:27 PM »

Someone's all worked up and appointed himself forum police.
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