Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 7286 times)

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #75 on: December 04, 2012, 04:58:10 PM »
The sport climber doesn't wait to get back to the hayloft, but schnucksels at the crag  ;)
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Offline JBrochu

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #76 on: December 04, 2012, 05:01:42 PM »
I assume you have done the Seventh Seal thing so..


Nope never done it. Is that a good one for self-belayed toprope?
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #77 on: December 04, 2012, 05:05:21 PM »
I assume you have done the Seventh Seal thing so..


Nope never done it. Is that a good one for self-belayed toprope?

It's awesome, and you can grab Ethereal and play on Dunn's Diversion.... BUT you gotta get up the 5.5 Beezlebub corner to set it up...

Offline strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #78 on: December 04, 2012, 05:53:19 PM »
I assume you have done the Seventh Seal thing so..


Nope never done it. Is that a good one for self-belayed toprope?
A real nice route, easy for the grade and solid fimgers after the first move. I agree with Dman as well !!! Ethereal is one move hard seam, then very thin fingers. Dunn's is a decent 11B with a short crux. you CAN solo up the right side is it's dry, easy but don't fall off. otherwise the corner is pretty easy though often a bit damp.
One rope gets you up and off------------is the tree still there ??????

There are a couple of newer lines on the left side, but I have not done them

Offline old_school

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #79 on: December 04, 2012, 08:27:48 PM »

One rope gets you up and off------------is the tree still there ??????

There are a couple of newer lines on the left side, but I have not done them

The tree is there but is hollow & dead. I heard that a bolted anchor has been placed up there. I rapped on the tree last year and felt it move, glad to hear someone fixed an anchor before someone got seriously hurt over there. There is a nice 5.9 just to the right of the corner and an 11d/12 bolted line just to the right of that. I think that area is a good suggestion. Great climbs over there...albeit a smidge "polished"   ;)
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #80 on: December 04, 2012, 10:30:52 PM »
I heard that a bolted anchor has been placed up there.

a bolt anchor on the Ethereal Buttress???? WTF - CHOP IT!!!! if the anchors on the pedestal on Thin Air were chopped, twice, this should be! it's heresy!
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #81 on: December 05, 2012, 12:43:30 AM »
I heard that a bolted anchor has been placed up there.

a bolt anchor on the Ethereal Buttress???? WTF - CHOP IT!!!! if the anchors on the pedestal on Thin Air were chopped, twice, this should be! it's heresy!

It's actually placed high on the wall above the actual buttress... you need to stand on tippy toes to clip it (from the dead tree)

What would you prefer Al? That tree was getting quite scary to rap off...  It doesn't change the character of the climb... but then again neither did the Bombardment anchor... but meh... I'm not getting into this shit at this hour...

OK maybe just a little bit...

This spot does not equal the pedestal with the amble easy gear anchors available... all that was there was the tree... and it was dangerous...

The only defense of the TA pedestal bolts was "it was in the guidebook for 30 years"... meh, glad those are gone, glad the new anchor is above Seventh Seal, still think my Bombardment Anchor* made sense...



* first tree dead, second one getting trampled (and far back from the end of the route). Fixed bolt rap anchor on the shelf after finishing the actual route would allow a single 60m rap back to the ground (and a visual on your partner following the route)... but nah... you should carry a 2nd rope and rap Ventilator or carry on to the top of the cliff in the true Cathedral Way... because tree anchors are more in the character of the cliff... unless they are dead... then a bolt anchor is ok... looking forward to that 2nd tree dying so I can put that anchor back...
« Last Edit: December 05, 2012, 12:52:40 AM by DMan »

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #82 on: December 05, 2012, 08:04:19 AM »
Dave. the downside of a bolted anchor @ the top of Bombardment is that every time you go out there to climb it there is a top ropeing gang camped out Gunks style . sometimes the road to hell is paved by good intentions.

DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #83 on: December 05, 2012, 09:25:14 AM »
Dave. the downside of a bolted anchor @ the top of Bombardment is that every time you go out there to climb it there is a top ropeing gang camped out Gunks style . sometimes the road to hell is paved by good intentions.

I don't think that would happen. For one there is no easy top access. And having a bolted anchor vrs a tree does not change the fact that top-ropers should yield to parties playing though.

Offline strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #84 on: December 05, 2012, 09:27:51 AM »
What should be done now at Ethereal is to topple the flake!!!! Down you go    >:(

Then you can link Seventh Seal to Looselips in one giant pitch--YEAH

That tree was dead 20 years ago

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #85 on: December 05, 2012, 09:32:48 AM »
If it is a 30m 5.8 to bolted anchors gaurenteed it turns into a top rope camp out. Just the laws of nature....

Offline JBrochu

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #86 on: December 05, 2012, 09:40:45 AM »
If your willing to drive to VT, Wheeler Mt has some great areas for toprope soloing. My first recommendation is the Moosehead Crack area. You can easily hike around to the top anchors for that area. From the same anchor you can set up for Moosehead Crack (5.8 crack) and Kind Gesture (5.10b slab/Face) without reconfiguring your anchor or adding directionals. Both are about 90' and clean and safe for toproping alone.

Continue past the Moosehead anchors following the trail will bring you to another set of rings. From these anchors you can lower and toprope The Switch and The Apprentice (5.10's). A little more of a commitment since they are 180' and involve a small roof at half height. Sometimes i only rap down to above the roof and climb up from there (5.9 on both from this point).


Picked up the VT guidebook at Rock and Snow yesterday -- thanks for the suggestion that looks good.
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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Offline old_school

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #87 on: December 05, 2012, 09:58:17 AM »
What should be done now at Ethereal is to topple the flake!!!! Down you go    >:(

Then you can link Seventh Seal to Looselips in one giant pitch--YEAH

That tree was dead 20 years ago

Oh hells yes!!!  ;D
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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #88 on: December 05, 2012, 04:53:18 PM »
If it is a 30m 5.8 to bolted anchors gaurenteed it turns into a top rope camp out. Just the laws of nature....

top-ropers should yield to parties playing though...

In my 16 years of climbing I have never had a TR party not let me lead a route when I asked them politely... not once... it's basic courtesy (a more and more rare thing I suppose)

Offline Jeff

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #89 on: December 05, 2012, 05:28:37 PM »
It's not always that way in the Gunks or even in CT! I and others have been told--" we'll be moving to use that TR as soon as one more person takes a ride on this one-if you want to climb you should get here earlier!" At that I flipped the TR to the side and led the route-- I was tempted but didn't take the TR set up down and drop it from the top. >:(