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Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 5467 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #90 on: December 05, 2012, 05:46:34 PM »
I am often for bolted anchors  but that one is the start of a multi pitch trad climb. No need to come back down when you should be climbing through to the top.  Adding a bolted anchor there is garenteed to give it a single pitch feel and add to the traffic in a spot that can already be a logjam. The addition of all of those bolted anchors @ the gunks drasticly changed the nature of the climbing there. In the eightys the only place I Ever saw a top rope @ the Gunks was right arround the Uberfall. Went back around 2000 or so and there were gang top ropes everywhere..
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #91 on: December 05, 2012, 05:47:34 PM »
Quote from: Jeff on December 05, 2012, 05:28:37 PM
I and others have been told--" we'll be moving to use that TR as soon as one more person takes a ride on this one-if you want to climb you should get here earlier!"
Yeah, this has happened to me too, at The Gunks and maybe even NH (memory's a little fuzzy).
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sneoh

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #92 on: December 05, 2012, 05:53:27 PM »
Assuming there is no shortage of good gear placements for building an anchor, I think bolted anchors should be for rappel and saving trees.
I think a number of bolted anchors were put in at The Gunks to save what is left of the trees and vegetation on popular routes (e.g. Madame G).
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #93 on: December 05, 2012, 06:25:35 PM »
Quote from: Jeff on December 05, 2012, 05:28:37 PM
It's not always that way in the Gunks or even in CT! I and others have been told--" we'll be moving to use that TR as soon as one more person takes a ride on this one-if you want to climb you should get here earlier!" At that I flipped the TR to the side and led the route-- I was tempted but didn't take the TR set up down and drop it from the top. >:(

I do imagine people are more polite up here... I like the way you handled it, I would have loved to have been there...

Quote from: tradmanclimbz on December 05, 2012, 05:46:34 PM
I am often for bolted anchors  but that one is the start of a multi pitch trad climb. No need to come back down when you should be climbing through to the top...

By modern standards Bombardment is a single pitch 30m route. While historically you are linking the 1st pitch of Pleasant St by doing it this way, it's still only a 30m pitch. How is that a multi-pitch climb? Oh, you mean I can 3rd class for 200 feet to Upper Refuse and that's the only way I should climb Bombardment? Come on, it's an excellent climb by itself, you can go to Cannon and bang out Slow & Easy and rap off a bolted anchor with no one saying "You should go to the top!"...

Quote from: sneoh on December 05, 2012, 05:53:27 PM
Assuming there is no shortage of good gear placements for building an anchor, I think bolted anchors should be for rappel and saving trees.
I think a number of bolted anchors were put in at The Gunks to save what is left of the trees and vegetation on popular routes (e.g. Madame G).


There is no good gear anchor anywhere near the end of Bombardment. Historically they used the tree closer to the edge, which has been killed, now we all use the one 30 feet back from the edge... until it dies... but I went down this road in 2004...
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #94 on: December 05, 2012, 06:30:30 PM »
We are so off the original topic now but I dug up that thread from 2005...

It feels good to read shit you said 7 years ago and still feel the same way about it...

http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php?topic=1402.0
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #95 on: December 05, 2012, 06:51:08 PM »
Fuckin' Bolts... Fuckin' trees,,,, 
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #96 on: December 05, 2012, 07:51:47 PM »
I usually use Bombardment to get to the Book or Black lung. put a bolted anchor there and you guys will be useing it to teach top ropeing all day.  not every 30 meter pitch needs to be gangroped.

The problem @ the gunks is that they put a bunch of bolted anchors at the top of 1st pitches. this completly changed the dynamic of those climbs turning many of them into top rope magnets.
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #97 on: December 05, 2012, 08:00:20 PM »
Sorry Tradman... pure speculation on your part. Cathedral is not the Gunks. Numbers have gone down IMO since I moved here in 2001 (thank you Rumney).

I have only been turned away from Bombardment once due to people just starting it, and I climb it a dozen times a season. It only takes 30 minutes or so to climb it, so it is rarely an issue.

"teaching toproping"? Please... we do that at Square Ledge in Pinkham... Bombardment would be a horrible climb to "teach toproping"...

If anything a bolted anchor there would see any traffic on the route actually move faster, as they do almost on any route so equipped...

Bottom line, the existing tree anchor will die in the next 20 years, and then the bolts will go back in... and stay
« Last Edit: December 05, 2012, 08:03:10 PM by DMan »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #98 on: December 05, 2012, 08:02:07 PM »
Probobly and I will be fine with that..
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #99 on: December 05, 2012, 08:02:55 PM »
P.S. Again, around here, we yield the right of way to people leading... so on the off chance someone feels like hang dogging Bombardment all day, few of us would not politely at first ask permission to climb through, or if need be resort to "Jeff tactics"
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #100 on: December 05, 2012, 08:05:47 PM »
Not that it matters if I am fine with it or not... i guess i look at it differently not being a local. I usually do not drive 3hrs to do single pitch climbs. I never even stopped at the top of Bombardment. simply hiked on through untill I run out of rope. If i lived there and wanted to get out after work It would be a different story..
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #101 on: December 05, 2012, 08:07:24 PM »
Quote from: tradmanclimbz on December 05, 2012, 08:05:47 PM
If i lived there and wanted to get out after work It would be a different story..

That's exactly it... silly to run up there at 7pm on a nice July afternoon for a quick lap with 2 ropes to get down...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #102 on: December 05, 2012, 08:13:18 PM »
Even worse to head out there @ 5:00pm thinking you will cruise Bombardment to the Book only to find a rope hanging and 4 people waiting to climb.....

Around here pretty much anything 10 and under that is TRable can have a guided group on it at any given time.
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DLottmann

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #103 on: December 05, 2012, 08:22:56 PM »
Quote from: tradmanclimbz on December 05, 2012, 08:13:18 PM
Even worse to head out there @ 5:00pm thinking you will cruise Bombardment to the Book only to find a rope hanging and 4 people waiting to climb.....

Around here pretty much anything 10 and under that is TRable can have a guided group on it at any given time.

Guided groups after 5pm? You guys need a good brewery nearby...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #104 on: December 05, 2012, 08:27:24 PM »
We need more bigger cliffs!
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