1. This is an EXPERIENCED climber Looking for routes to work "FOR DAYS WHEN I GET STUCK W/OUT A PARTNER"
So In your eyes to stay true TRAD in this Circumstance he would need to Solo? Its in the TRAD section because he wants TRAD routes he can eventually lead with a partner present.
2. By TRing the route first, doesn't negate the fact that when he goes on the sharp end IT WILL STILL BE LEAD WITH TRADITIONAL GEAR.
3. THIS HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH ACCIDENTS RESULTING IN DEATH.....it is someone looking to SAFELY hone there skills when they can't get out with someone else.
1- Experience from the bottom up. There is a way to safely climb a route by setting an anchor at the bottom and self belay himself without the necessity of a partner. SA did it on the prow as he made the second ascent of it and took a wimper of 100 feets. He had a self belay.
2- IT WILL STILL BE LEAD WITH
TRADITIONAL GEAR: But it won't be lead in the traditional ethic. This is the problem. using a bolt or a cam that you already know the size and the direction to place it you just need a little bit more stamina. When you don't know where to place the pro, you have to stop, make an evaluation of the move, think at the distance you are going to fall, decide the size of the pro in a way that you will have some thing higher to place, etc... This is what a trad climber is accostumed to do.
3- To have an accident, you need three thing: a bad situation, a skill climber and a mistake. Bad situation, it is happening every times; skill climber at top rope, it is like some one who built a house...if his job is to brought the brick from the truck to the worker who will place it, he is not very good, a mistake is choosing the wrong pro...sport climber use bolt and do the route on top rope to know what to use, a trad climber will do aid climbing; stress to be kill, sport climber often don't think at stressfull situation, trad climber increase slowly there level by resolving stressfull situation...a little bit at a time; rest place, in top rope, you head as fast as you can to the top to take the lead, etc.
In resume: sport climber are often at the wrong place at the wrong moment... it is why there is more accident in trad.
Verdon, some place in the west of america, on bolt, they are amasing. Style, fluidity, etc, are all caracteristic of sport climber.
But, they are at the wrong place at the wrong moment
that cause death, not minor accident.