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Author Topic: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope  (Read 2936 times)

strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #195 on: December 10, 2012, 10:13:35 AM »
If P1 of Mordor has sprouted bolts they came after the ffa 'cause I belayed Jim and we didn't place any. P2 sure has had stuff added over the years   because SA i think only placed ONE on the f/a

I think fixed heads are the way to go...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #196 on: December 10, 2012, 10:46:50 AM »
 Seems like a fixed head is simply a really crappy bolt....
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #197 on: December 10, 2012, 06:00:03 PM »
Quote from: strandman on December 10, 2012, 09:27:08 AM
Lukw- please stop it about Crack In the Woods.

Sorry I go too far, hard to not react badly at what some people wrote. it is not your case.
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lucky luke

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #198 on: December 10, 2012, 06:13:57 PM »
Quote from: strandman on December 10, 2012, 10:13:35 AM
If P1 of Mordor has sprouted bolts they came after the ffa 'cause I belayed Jim and we didn't place any. P2 sure has had stuff added over the years   because SA i think only placed ONE on the f/a

I think that SA rate it A-4 or A-3. Did they place a bolt close to the bashi? I am sure that we have some in the traverse. It is interesting how SA bolt it. In the traverse, the fall factor is close to one without bolt. If you fall, you make a very long pendulum in the air to the other side of the crack. SA place a bolt when he change his direction. Instead of doing a traverse, he went up. Without that bolt, in a fall, he will have felt down and after to the side. This kind of fall is very dangerous because you can't protect yourself when the direction of the fall change.

As you place your gear, it happens some times that the protection change the direction of a fall. In that condition, the general rules didn't apply and you have to change your strategy. A longer fall could be a solution better than to sew a crack. Hard to gave a rule to follow, but when I climb trad I can take tricks with the experience of other climbers.
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strandman

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #199 on: December 10, 2012, 06:25:10 PM »
 :-*
Quote from: lucky luke on December 10, 2012, 06:00:03 PM
Quote from: strandman on December 10, 2012, 09:27:08 AM
Lukw- please stop it about Crack In the Woods.

Sorry I go too far, hard to not react badly at what some people wrote. it is not your case.

Peace, maybe we will go tp cap trinite sometime.. now THAT'S a trad area
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JBrochu

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Re: 5.9/5.10 Trad Routes for Projecting via Self-Belayed Toprope
« Reply #200 on: December 11, 2012, 01:47:10 PM »
Quote from: lucky luke on December 10, 2012, 06:00:03 PM
...hard to not react badly at what some people wrote...


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