https://www.rockandice.com/news/2383-john-long-injured-in-groundfall?utm_source=Mountain%2BProject&utm_medium=RSS%2BFeed&utm_campaign=MP%2BFeed-News
it was the bowline.....
Wow... well... two people are really to blame. JL and his belayer... as a belayer I don't feel I can honestly say "on belay" unless I have checked my partners knot... EVERY TIME!
That being said, there was a great short article a month or two ago in one of the rags, the "Ask a Guide" section, where Robb Hess stated the absolute best knot to tie in with is the retraced figure eight with NO BACKUP KNOT!
The argument was when this is tied properly it;
1) Is impossible for it to untie
2) Easy to inspect, even from a distance (backup knots make it harder to inspect)
The UIAA (and Freedom of the Hills) both endorse the retraced eight with 6 inches of tail on a snug knot... that's IT. No silly half-hitches after the fact... tie the knot correctly, and carry on...
The ONLY advantage of the bowline is it is slightly easier to untie after a HARD fall on it... to many wanna bees think they are falling hard enough to use the bowline, or think it is cool because it is not the standard...
I've been able to untie figure 8's after 200lb people have whipped on them... it's a lame advantage...
Re-traced eight, you check it, your belayer checks it, you check it one more time... climb on!