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[angeloks]

Hi,
Since the weather is going to be pretty warm, I was thinking on climbing the summer route of Huntington ravine this week. I guess there won't be that much snow so that I should be able to follow the trail. Crampons and alpine axe should do it? Or I should gear up for ice climbing?
A+

[DMan]

While I must be honest and say I've never attempted the Huntington hiking trail this time of year I would consider it to be in pretty serious condition despite the warm temps down in the valleys. I would expect thin ice over the bottom slab, possible verglas elsewhere, not much in terms for "security" without a rope and pro... I would wear a helmet if I was going to try it, but there are 50 other better places to hike this time of year than the head wall of Huntington...

Have you done Boot Spur? Nelson Crag? Those are two excellent ridge hikes, Nelson Crag gives you some excellent views into Huntington Ravine...

[kenreville]

Very good advice and alternatives. Agree 100%

[strandman]

The trail could be pretty nasty now ?  henderson Ridge is barely technical and decent stuff.

[old_school]

Rains last night and the night before have altered the conditions considerably. I would be real leary of attempting the Ravine Trail now. The drive through the notch was icy this morning and the flanks of Mount Washington were frosted with rime. I am in agreement with DMan and Strandman. There are better options out there for this time of year that will still get you out enjoying the mountains! Be safe! 

[angeloks]

Oki thank you all for your advices ! @DMan, I climbed both Nelson Crag and Spur. I also did Huntington a few times this summer, but I guess from all the comments, I should avoid it right now. Any suggestions then to get up Huntington anyway? Although I'm expecting it to be somewhat technical and involving, what would be the "easiest way/safest" way up? Strandman mentioned Henderson ridge, is that a good option right now? I'll be carrying some rope and ice-screws.

[DGoguen]

Seems like hiking and climbing are getting thrown together here.
The Huntington Ravine trail is the easiest way to the Alpine Garden. This time of year it will either bore a climber or kill a Hiker.
The Henderson ridge, albeit super easy, is a class 5 rock route that would also kill a hiker or keep a climber attentive.
I think you need to decide if your going climbing or hiking.

[angeloks]

@DGoguen, indeed I realized that my question wasn't quite clear. I was looking for an easy "climb" up Huntington just to get started this season. I'm expecting some mountaineering experience without the real "climbing" involvement (for exemple a 30m vertical section). So I guess with some proper gear, the Huntington trail is climbable relatively easily. I apologize if my question seems unclear. I've only climbed Tuckerman in winter, so I don't really what conditions to expect in Huntington, especially this early in the season ! Thanks again for your inputs !

[Broken_Spectre]

I would dispute the assertion that the HR trail is a piece of cake this time of year.  The slabs right of central when covered with verglas (like they probably are right now) are no picnic.  I'd opt for Henderson (it stays drier) unless the snow piles up and covers those initial slabs, otherwise prepare for some thin mixed to gain the buttress...

[DMan]

Oki thank you all for your advices ! @DMan, I climbed both Nelson Crag and Spur. I also did Huntington a few times this summer, but I guess from all the comments, I should avoid it right now. Any suggestions then to get up Huntington anyway? Although I'm expecting it to be somewhat technical and involving, what would be the "easiest way/safest" way up? Strandman mentioned Henderson ridge, is that a good option right now? I'll be carrying some rope and ice-screws.

So, I gotta ask... what's the fascination with Huntington? You did it a few times this summer, and have done Nelson... I would suggest waiting till the snow routes come in and grabbing South Gully, or Odells if you have some ice climbing experience...

[Paul Calabro]

For what it's worth, here's an image of what the Huntington Ravine hiking trail looked like on Saturday (surely it has changed by now).
Also for what it's worth, I was going to descend it and wound up bailing back upwards - for me, it was more sketch-fest than I wanted to get into.

[strandman]

Nice shot Paul- you gotta love the "trail"

[apbt1976]

Did Odell's Friday and although the approach was not bad the descent via Lions head was very slow going.

If you are used to the mountains in the winter i would say you have nothing to worry about just plan for a good amount of extra time. If you are not used to the mountains in the winter i would say skip it. Either way it will be a long slow day.

[angeloks]

Hey, thanks for all your inputs ! I went for it Tuesday. Left Montreal at 5am and got on the trail by 9h30. We had planned extra time and brought ice axes and crampons. It took us around 8 hours (up Huntington, down Lion's head). We had a great time, it is such a beautiful mountain. I must say that I love Alpine Garden !

[DMan]

Great pics, glad you had a fun day. You may have gotten the first dual leashless Ergo ascent of the Huntington Ravine trail...