Author Topic: Bolt on Chicken Delight?  (Read 624 times)

Offline Toby

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Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« on: May 05, 2004, 08:13:39 pm »
I was wondering if anyone knew about the history of this bolt.  It seems to me to be highly unnecessary and I was surprised to see it, especially with such a big hold at the top!

Toby

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2004, 09:03:15 pm »
best I know it was there on the FA. it certainly has been there for over 20 years and Paul Ross' book from 1982 says "Steep finger jamming to a bulge. Jam over bulge and up to old bolt."

don't even think of chopping it!

Al
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Offline slobmonster

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2004, 05:59:39 am »
Chicken Delight is the third route listed in Joe Cote's 1972 guidebook, with a rating of 5.7 A1, and with no mention of said bolt.  But, as Al points out, it's been there for 20+ years.

What's the motivating force behind your curiosity, Toby?
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Offline t-rad

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2004, 07:38:49 am »
i've clipped that bolt many years ago.  i remember thinking that if it wasn't there i would take a huge whipper if i missed the lunging solid sloper at the top, but no ground fall.

-a

Offline Toby

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2004, 10:59:41 am »
Hey guys don't worry...I,m not even thinking about chopping it....that not for me to even think about.  I was just surprised.  I expected the barber wall to uphold a strict traditional ethic.  Also with all the bolt war discussions going on I thought it was someone out to make a point and put it there.  I was looking to see if the bolt had history, and so it does.  I can respect that.  I am in agreement with the first ascent party having say.  

Toby

Offline SCUD

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2004, 10:08:06 am »
The bolt has been there for 35 years. It was placed on the FA by Richard Arey in 1969. The route derives its name from the bolt in fact, the leader having "chickened out" by taking delight in its placement. It was originally used for aid since the level of difficulty was beyond free climbing standards of the day, if you can imagine that.  
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2004, 12:13:48 pm »
wonder why it wasn't mentioned in Joe Coty's guidebook.

Al
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2004, 07:39:08 pm »
unfortunately I accidentally deleted Jeff Lea's reply to my question about Joe's book when I deleted my own duplicate posting. <sigh> Maybe Jeff will repost, sorry...

Al
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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2004, 05:53:26 am »
Quote
wonder why it wasn't mentioned in Joe Coty's guidebook.

Al



That isn't terribly surprising, as most of the route descriptions were pretty straightforward and to-the-point.  Mentioning the bolt would have been irrelevant, as the description basically says "follow the crack".

It is interesting that in Ross' 1978 guide, it mentions an "old" bolt on the route...

Offline Jeff

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2004, 05:15:19 am »
Al: I just said it probably wasn't mentioned in Joe Cote's book because in less "pure" times, pins and bolts put in by first ascentionists were considered judgement calls. That wall was totally covered by black lichen "back in the day" and the climb was named for Dick Arey's  "transgression", albeit somewhat tongue in cheek. At the time, a bolt put in on the lead was considered necessary until proven otherwise.  Jeff Lea

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Bolt on Chicken Delight?
« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2004, 06:45:34 am »
so here's a question for ya... was that bolt on Chicken Delight put in on the lead, before or afterwards? that would be a heck of a stance to be drilling! does anybody remember?

inquiring minds...

al
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