General > Rock Climbing: Trad


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tradmanclimbz: like a lot of relative noobs somehow get up this thing. Suppriseing that there are not more serious accidents on it... the top wiggles when you stand on it. At least it did wiggle in 96. perhaps that piece has fallen off?  the directin of pull for lowering and if someone took the fall from the top seems like the whole mudsicle could toppel over on to the belay :-\

Admin Al:
pretty wild. I gotta wonder just how solid those bolts are.

The bolts suck. The drilled angles suck,  the bolts and what little gear there is on the 5.8 chimny pitch totally sucks. There was a bad wreck there a few months ago but it is still considered one of the easier towers so It gets a ton of traffic.

My wife and I had a great time on this one a few years back and as of then the caprock still moves, somebody could probably toss it off if they really tried. I wouldn't be surprised if this route had a serious casualty list with the moderate grade, crap gear and all. Possibly the easiest tower route in the area? Still, a fun experience, the summit makes the route worthwhile.

Some of the bolts were old star-drives (yikes!). The last time I was in Moab somebody told me they like those drilled angles because the depth of the hole can be over drilled and as the rock wears down around it the pin can just be pounded in further. I don't know how true that is... but I kind of like the story.

I have been told a few times that the drilled angles are bomber yet I have come accross a few that are so loose  you can easily take them out with your fingers and slip em back in :-\
 Did a full length rappel in Zion off of completly loose drilled angles rigged with the death triangle... Kind of like rapping off of camhooks but scarier..  This was 1986 before we knew what the death triangle was :-[


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