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Author Topic: Interesting  (Read 697 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Interesting
« on: December 09, 2012, 12:11:26 AM »
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmHAWZpdcpwSeems like a lot of relative noobs somehow get up this thing. Suppriseing that there are not more serious accidents on it... the top wiggles when you stand on it. At least it did wiggle in 96. perhaps that piece has fallen off?  the directin of pull for lowering and if someone took the fall from the top seems like the whole mudsicle could toppel over on to the belay :-\
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Admin Al

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2012, 08:44:58 AM »
pretty wild. I gotta wonder just how solid those bolts are.
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Al Hospers
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2012, 09:27:58 AM »
The bolts suck. The drilled angles suck,  the bolts and what little gear there is on the 5.8 chimny pitch totally sucks. There was a bad wreck there a few months ago but it is still considered one of the easier towers so It gets a ton of traffic.
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Maxsuffering

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2012, 08:26:58 AM »
My wife and I had a great time on this one a few years back and as of then the caprock still moves, somebody could probably toss it off if they really tried. I wouldn't be surprised if this route had a serious casualty list with the moderate grade, crap gear and all. Possibly the easiest tower route in the area? Still, a fun experience, the summit makes the route worthwhile.

Some of the bolts were old star-drives (yikes!). The last time I was in Moab somebody told me they like those drilled angles because the depth of the hole can be over drilled and as the rock wears down around it the pin can just be pounded in further. I don't know how true that is... but I kind of like the story.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2012, 09:50:59 AM »
I have been told a few times that the drilled angles are bomber yet I have come accross a few that are so loose  you can easily take them out with your fingers and slip em back in :-\
 Did a full length rappel in Zion off of completly loose drilled angles rigged with the death triangle... Kind of like rapping off of camhooks but scarier..  This was 1986 before we knew what the death triangle was :-[
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2012, 09:58:59 AM »
BTW Aincent Art is a very special climb regardless of the crowds...
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strandman

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2012, 10:18:50 AM »
Arts is great climb... you want scary ?? try the Cobra  OR Standing Rock       

Drilled pins need 2 sizes of drill to be even adequate.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2012, 10:29:32 AM »
Thought I read awhile back that the Cobra shifted on someone?
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strandman

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2012, 10:37:59 AM »
I thought the whole thing would topple LOOKING at it !! It's really frightening.  The "gear" is bodyweight and the move is solid 5.11. I tried several times and grabbed/downclimbed each time.

Was I working the route ???
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2012, 10:44:59 AM »
They are all scary!  I never quite get used to the mud. RR Nevada on the other hand the rock feels secure and it seems to eat up small/medium stoppers that actually feel secure..
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strandman

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2012, 10:46:21 AM »
There's a place down in AZ that  "makes the Fishers look like marble"""" Verm
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2012, 10:50:08 AM »
we did a tower somewhere down there that we were the 3rd party to sign the register and the rap station was allready grooved out from pulling ropes :-[
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pappy

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2012, 12:32:13 PM »
I did it just a few years ago and don't remember any moments of serious concern, but then, I think it gets so much traffic that it's been cleaned as much as such things can be. I was actually disappointed that the rock and fixed gear seemed so...adequate. I thought about just pushing the Cobra over, but if you obliterate a climb like that, does it count as chipping? A buddy of mine desperately wants to do the Titan--I have this unpleasant thought that I'm going to wind up on that--and that should still sport the true Fisher spirit and 'rock'. But then, I like crap like that, probably why I like the Canadian Rockies so much.
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Admin Al

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2012, 01:54:28 PM »
Quote from: pappy on December 10, 2012, 12:32:13 PM
...But then, I like crap like that, probably why I like the Canadian Rockies so much.

lots of choss out there!
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Al Hospers
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the_other_andy

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Re: Interesting
« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2012, 04:01:22 PM »
Note gear beta, good descripition too. Just got a second ascent.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tom-thumbs-tallywag/106085208#a_107871869

Great pic of a nearby tower.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106085297

Loose is in the eye of the beholder. I think Ancient Art is super solid, that top block has been like that for a long time.

« Last Edit: December 10, 2012, 04:08:59 PM by the_other_andy »
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