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Author Topic: belay anchors  (Read 1588 times)

strandman

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belay anchors
« on: December 11, 2012, 06:52:14 PM »

i plan to place quite a few belay bolts in the spring.... 20-30 sets. I have almost always used the one up one down method. it allows for a bit of swing when rapping and kinda equalizes the loads. most stuff I see now is side by side with links.

The Fixe trad anchor seems the way to go.. these routes are not going to see TR action

opinions  ?
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DLottmann

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2012, 10:10:01 PM »

Pics would help.

I live the vertical bolts with chains, like the 3rd pitch of Rapid Transit anchor... STOUT... makes more sense than all these horizontal anchors...
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sneoh

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2012, 10:26:18 PM »

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2012, 11:17:29 PM »

Like this one ?
http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-traditional-anchor/
Real pain to get a biner into the lower hanger.
...

Exactly... I usually just put a biner through one of the links if setting a MP or TR anchor... definitely strong enough eh? Your 2nd option is even more ideal though...
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strandman

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2012, 10:09:16 AM »

YA- the firstone is what I'm thinking.  $15 isn't bad. You can then slightly offset the 2 hangers in a vertical set up
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old_school

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2012, 10:51:32 AM »

Pics would help.

I live the vertical bolts with chains, like the 3rd pitch of Rapid Transit anchor... STOUT... makes more sense than all these horizontal anchors...

Placing those must be a PITA, and you are limited to the distance between bolts due to the length of chain. If you are in good solid flat rock (which you should be in anyway), then it wouldn't be an issue (seldom do you find that out here so some hammering and/or spacing out the placements is in order), but I have no qualms with the horizontally placed bolts that you find in most spots out here.
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DLottmann

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2012, 11:13:56 AM »

Pics would help.

I live the vertical bolts with chains, like the 3rd pitch of Rapid Transit anchor... STOUT... makes more sense than all these horizontal anchors...
... but I have no qualms with the horizontally placed bolts that you find in most spots out here.

I don't really either, but I like how the vertical ones are almost equalized with no extension with minimal material. Horizontal takes twice as much chain to equalize.
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sneoh

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2012, 11:44:44 AM »

One downside with a pair of these http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-chain-anchor/ on a 1-pitch route (besides cost) is some people will actually setup to TR through the rings.  Crazy but it happens.
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strandman

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2012, 11:57:04 AM »

My plans are all for multi pitch stuff.  Rap in.. climb out. I also have always liked the top bolt to be the first pro for the next pitch, so the vertical set up is a favorite
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M_Sprague

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2012, 12:46:33 PM »

I don't like these http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-traditional-anchor/ so much
for the reason Soon mention, plus it all goes down to a single ring, that, granted will probably last a while if people aren't TRing off it, but the whole contraption will need to be replaced. Vertical alignment makes sense from the vector perspective, but in good rock, with good hardware, I like horizontal, between 6 and 8 inches. That makes it easier to clip in  while threading and also gives you a little more room  to work.
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strandman

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2012, 02:52:47 PM »

Fixe  has(25) 3/8 " plated steel hangers for $36.50 !!! I know not SS but still good hangers
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sneoh

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #11 on: December 12, 2012, 02:56:45 PM »

That is a great price. 
Maybe you should get them and use qlinks or qlinks with chain.
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M_Sprague

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #12 on: December 12, 2012, 04:00:46 PM »

Are you using non SS bolts?
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strandman

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2012, 04:09:51 PM »

Yes.. rust is a very minor issue out here.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: belay anchors
« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2012, 06:42:37 PM »

$15.00 might be the plated steel anchor?   that style is good if it is not super high traffic area. if the ring wears out it is harder to replace just the rap end with that setuo..
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