General > Rock Climbing: Trad

belay anchors

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strandman:
i plan to place quite a few belay bolts in the spring.... 20-30 sets. I have almost always used the one up one down method. it allows for a bit of swing when rapping and kinda equalizes the loads. most stuff I see now is side by side with links.

The Fixe trad anchor seems the way to go.. these routes are not going to see TR action

opinions  ?

DMan:
Pics would help.

I live the vertical bolts with chains, like the 3rd pitch of Rapid Transit anchor... STOUT... makes more sense than all these horizontal anchors...

sneoh:
Like this one ?
http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-traditional-anchor/
Real pain to get a biner into the lower hanger.

If cost is not an objection, I rather see a pair of this - http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-chain-anchor/  or this - http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-013-3/8-bolt-hanger-chain/

DMan:

--- Quote from: sneoh on December 11, 2012, 10:26:18 PM ---Like this one ?
http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-traditional-anchor/
Real pain to get a biner into the lower hanger.
...

--- End quote ---

Exactly... I usually just put a biner through one of the links if setting a MP or TR anchor... definitely strong enough eh? Your 2nd option is even more ideal though...

strandman:
YA- the firstone is what I'm thinking.  $15 isn't bad. You can then slightly offset the 2 hangers in a vertical set up

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