Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[ELM]

Partner "So when you get to the anchor what are we doing?"
Me " I clip in; untie, thread the anchors, retie"
Partner "and ?"
Me; "you lower me..."
Partner "ok"

That's just an example of communication. Something I was reminded of this summer.
He also may have berated me about wearing out rap rings by lowering me...I forgave him...you should too.

[DLottmann]

Partner "So when you get to the anchor what are we doing?"
Me " I clip in; untie, thread the anchors, retie"
Partner "and ?"
Me; "you lower me..."
Partner "ok"

That's just an example of communication. Something I was reminded of this summer.
He also may have berated me about wearing out rap rings by lowering me...I forgave him...you should too.

That is good communication... in the exact scenario I like to do the “sport thread” or whatever it’s called, i.e. pass a bight through, figure-8 on bight locked to belay loop, untie original eight, pull slack through... lower... that way you are actually always on belay, the clipping in is optional based on the stance...

[sneoh]

Good communication indeed, I am going to adopt it.

DMan, with 3/8" qlinks on the anchor bolts, you are not likely able to pass a bight of rope through the links.  Ditto for Fixe steel rap rings.  Unless you are using a 9.4mm single rope (which is 0.5mm thinner than I like to climb on ).

[DLottmann]

...
DMan, with 3/8" qlinks on the anchor bolts, you are not likely able to pass a bight of rope through the links.  Ditto for Fixe steel rap rings.  Unless you are using a 9.4mm single rope (which is 0.5mm thinner than I like to climb on ).

Gotcha, and good point...

[tradmanclimbz]

I have no problem stuffing 10.2mm rope through fixe rings and quick links etc without untieing.

[steve weitzler]

Have to agree with John. You're on belay until you yell "OFF."