Author Topic: So freaking lucky for this climber  (Read 1527 times)

Offline ELM

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Re: So freaking lucky for this climber
« Reply #15 on: December 14, 2012, 09:44:02 PM »
Partner "So when you get to the anchor what are we doing?"
Me " I clip in; untie, thread the anchors, retie"
Partner "and ?"
Me; "you lower me..."
Partner "ok"

That's just an example of communication. Something I was reminded of this summer.
He also may have berated me about wearing out rap rings by lowering me...I forgave him...you should too.
Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

DLottmann

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Re: So freaking lucky for this climber
« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2012, 01:47:20 PM »
Partner "So when you get to the anchor what are we doing?"
Me " I clip in; untie, thread the anchors, retie"
Partner "and ?"
Me; "you lower me..."
Partner "ok"

That's just an example of communication. Something I was reminded of this summer.
He also may have berated me about wearing out rap rings by lowering me...I forgave him...you should too.

That is good communication... in the exact scenario I like to do the “sport thread” or whatever it’s called, i.e. pass a bight through, figure-8 on bight locked to belay loop, untie original eight, pull slack through... lower... that way you are actually always on belay, the clipping in is optional based on the stance...

Offline sneoh

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Re: So freaking lucky for this climber
« Reply #17 on: December 15, 2012, 06:54:14 PM »
Good communication indeed, I am going to adopt it.

DMan, with 3/8" qlinks on the anchor bolts, you are not likely able to pass a bight of rope through the links.  Ditto for Fixe steel rap rings.  Unless you are using a 9.4mm single rope (which is 0.5mm thinner than I like to climb on :)).

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: So freaking lucky for this climber
« Reply #18 on: December 15, 2012, 08:19:12 PM »
...
DMan, with 3/8" qlinks on the anchor bolts, you are not likely able to pass a bight of rope through the links.  Ditto for Fixe steel rap rings.  Unless you are using a 9.4mm single rope (which is 0.5mm thinner than I like to climb on :)).

Gotcha, and good point...

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: So freaking lucky for this climber
« Reply #19 on: December 15, 2012, 11:33:30 PM »
I have no problem stuffing 10.2mm rope through fixe rings and quick links etc without untieing.

Offline steve weitzler

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Re: So freaking lucky for this climber
« Reply #20 on: December 17, 2012, 01:19:26 PM »
Have to agree with John. You're on belay until you yell "OFF."