General > Climbing Gear Q & A


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All this talk has got me going' You don't need all this shit.. fucking triple length sling, cordalettes, 5  lockers  BULLSHIT

Get your fucking basic gear and learn to use it.

you'll be carrying so much shit, you can't move.  ;

30 biners
6 cams

Am I missing something ?


--- Quote from: strandman on December 13, 2012, 06:35:37 pm ---Am I missing something ?

--- End quote ---

Yes: Different people have different preferences for accomplishing the same thing.

But I will say your rack as described isn't all that different than mine. I carry a few more cams (10 I think on my standard rack) roughly the same number of biners plus the aforementioned triple sling (tied tubular webbing) and a couple of cords. The webbing and cordage is cheap.

Not sure what the problem is. Not enough talk about sport versus trad in the last 24 hours?

You are missing Tricams, John! :)
Maybe a few more cams esp in the small, small sizes.  A nut tool.  One extra locker just in case.
Since I do not guide, I do not use a cordolette, let alone a PAS.  I used to have a 48" inch sling. Used it maybe twice.  Retired it and used it to hang my kid's swing from the tree when she was small.  2-footers are best IMO.
Optionally a prussik or ascender; might not be optional for some so I won't judge.

I have definitely seen the "you'll be carrying so much shit, you can't move." scenario.  What's worse is the leader getting the gear caught in a crack or behind a flake and a mini epic ensues.

Even with my relatively slim rack, Ajax used to make fun of me when we climbed together at The Gunks.  He recounted how Henry B would hand him gear on TWO biners when it was his (Ajax's) turn to lead.  Not sure if all the details were 100% accurate but I am sure the message was.

Here's one for sport vs. trad on this topic - I know of several strong young climbers who would show up at Waimea crag at Rumney with one or 2 draws for gear.  They would spend the entire day climbing (and sending) only routes equipped with fixed draws; starting with warm-up on Techno.

They will have to break down and bring more gear after Mark and I strip half the fixed draws from Waimea.
Just kidding, for now :)

The difference between sport and trad climber in this type of situation is the sport climber shows up with two quickdraws and leaves with two quickdraws. The trad climber shows up with none and leaves with all of them.


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