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Author Topic: The Most Fun Climbs..  (Read 3345 times)

tradmanclimbz

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The Most Fun Climbs..
« on: December 16, 2012, 09:59:16 PM »

Climbing is supposed to be fun. Climbing for me at least is a hell of a lot more than chest thumping over a dangerous climb.  Climbing is  a way of life for me (except when work gets in the damn way!) and climbing is fun :)
 
 these are some of my favorite Fun climbs in the north east.. Climbs that I go back and repete multiple times some of them even hundreds of times :-[

Multi pitch rock. in no praaticuler order. completly random and  probobly missing a bunch..


NH
 The eaglet 7
Rt66 8
Flat Iron 8
Recombeast w/ Prow Finish 10a
Sleeping beauty 10d
The Book 10a
lost Soles 10a
Inferno 8
Toe crack 6
Sea Of Holes 8
Endevor 7
WG 8
Moby 8
Vertigo 9
Accross the Universe 5.9 to that, crack, chimny , face  cool face 10a Kurt winkler thing on Upper Willard.

VT

Great Corner 11a  Wheeler(still fun despite missing the 2nd pin in the buisness. It was MORE FUN with the fixed gear and would be even better if the damn pins were fixed w/ bolts :P

Isabella 10a bird mtn.

NY

Hessitation 8
Overture   9
Partition 9
Bloody mary 9
The matrix 5.8
Screaming Meanie 5.8 5.6X
CCK 8
Roseland 9
Birdland 9-
Bonnies Roof 9
HE 6
Directisima 9
  shockleys 6
Son of easy O
etc..
heck pretty much everything @ the Gunks

Single pitch rock and ice routs to follow .. got to crash now....
« Last Edit: December 16, 2012, 10:05:24 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2012, 10:10:00 PM »

Your NH list pretty much echos mine... I'll add some and comment on others:

NH
The eaglet 7
Rt66 8
Flat Iron 8 (Did you mean Salt Packed? because that should definitely be on the list.
Recombeast w/ Prow Finish 10a
Sleeping beauty 10d
The Book 10a
lost Soles 10a
Inferno 8
Toe crack 6
Sea Of Holes 8 (I like Sliding Board better)
Endevor 7
WG 8
Moby 8
Vertigo 9
Accross the Universe 5.9 to that, crack, chimny , face  cool face 10a Kurt winkler thing on Upper Willard. ( What is this Winkler thing, sounds awesome)

OK, true additions:

Saigons
Rapid Transit (3rd Pitch) 5.9
Bombardment to Black Lung 5.8
The Roof to Raise the Roof (3 pitch at the N. End of Cathedral, should see more traffic than it gets!) 5.8
Childrens Crusade 1st 3 pitches 5.9

« Last Edit: December 16, 2012, 10:12:43 PM by DMan »
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sneoh

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2012, 07:58:08 AM »

I like DMan's additions to NC.
For The Gunks and below .10, I would add Something Interesting, Strictly From Nowhere, Alphonse, Farewell To Arms (make sure second is solid on the traverse), and MF (avoid the runout direct finish).

List for Rumney?
I will start it off with Underdog, Rock du Jours, P2, Stairway To Heaven.  And that is just some in the .9+/.10a range at one crag!

« Last Edit: December 18, 2012, 09:00:33 AM by sneoh »
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2012, 10:40:53 AM »

Does "fun" only mean 5.10 and under ?

Direct-Direct is WAY fun

so are;

reach the Sky
Lights In the Forest
Crack In the Woods
Puttin' In Time


A blast each and everytime
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2012, 10:41:55 AM »

And no chest thumping.. just ball clutching  ;)
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OldEric

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2012, 11:53:31 AM »

And no chest thumping.. just ball clutching  ;)

Everyone has their own idea of fun....
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Jeff

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2012, 04:21:42 PM »

And no chest thumping.. just ball clutching  ;)
Too much information, Strandman :D
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2012, 06:08:00 PM »

OK- but harder climbs, even runout climbs can be fun too.

Sliding Board isn't exactly well geared is it ?  A test piece for a 5.7 leader ? I would say so

how about Intimidation ? 


PS Moby grape has 100' of good climbing,, max
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #8 on: December 17, 2012, 08:38:31 PM »

Fun s what you consider to be fun. that was my short list of fun multi pitch rock. Your Fun can certainly be different than mine.  i will add single pitch rock and ice when i get the time. worked 10hrs today and have to get an early start tomorow so not now,...
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #9 on: December 17, 2012, 08:41:10 PM »

...
PS Moby grape has 100' of good climbing,, max

Are you joking? I guess I include Reppy's when I talk about Moby as I have never done the original start but that is a 180 foot pitch with the absolute best 5.8 hand crack in NH, no matter how much it hurts peoples ankles...

Pitch 2 is meh but pitch 3 is another gem, with the devious triangular roof leading to some fun climbing before the pitch ends, at notably my least favorite belay anchor on the climb...

Pitch 4 is meh, but pitch 5, The Sickle.... common... that thing is insane... did it once on the left side, and every ascent since on the right :)

I admit, after pitch 5 the route is meh, and I've actually never done the correct pitch 7, but pitch 1-5 have way more than "100' of good climbing"...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #10 on: December 17, 2012, 09:10:08 PM »

If you are not finding good clean interesting climbing above the sickel you are not going the right way....
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #11 on: December 17, 2012, 09:52:35 PM »

If you are not finding good clean interesting climbing above the sickel you are not going the right way....
I know I have gotten off route up there... but the part that starts to distract from the otherwise awesome quality is after the Sickle is the 35 foot "walk left" on pitch 6 immediately followed by a "tricky biouldering move"... I've haven't dialed that move yet and the gear ain't great to keep you off that traverse ledge... that and it's about a 90 in your rope after getting through that spot... definitely my own weakness... never been awesome at anything labeled "bouldery"... After that, I never get into that cave thingy... i can see it, but I haven't linked it. The last two times I traversed too far right, but then found some excellent horizontals that brought be to just above what the Sykes book says is "strenous move out right"... that part looks awesome, but I haven't gotten to it yet... maybe next time... I also want to find Kurt's corner up there... I've only done Moby 3-4 times so I don't have the top completely dialed...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2012, 11:14:20 PM »

the bouldery move sucks but the pitch up to the cave is clean amd good. The moves out of the cave are fun and  both finishes above the cave both Kurts and the slabs and  jam cracks are excelent.
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Maxsuffering

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2012, 06:02:16 AM »

Moby Grape definitely makes my list, good climbing all over that one. The Cave is way fun.

I'll echo most of Tradmans NH list and in the Adks add:

Quadrophenia
Fastest Gun
Casual Observer
Brrright Star
Tilmans Arete
Diagonal
Petes Farewell
The El
The Moss Cliff Link-up (P1+2 Touch Of Class to the Aerie Corner to the final pitch of Fear Of Flying)
Hard Times makes the list when approached from Touch Of Class

For single pitch options the routes I keep coming back to and never get sick of:

Frosted Mug
Tequila Mockingbird
Blacksmith
Roaches On The Wall
Raging Raven
Coffee Achievers
Any of the Classics at the Web
Arachnid Traction
Forever Wild

I'm probably forgetting something...


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carp

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #14 on: December 18, 2012, 08:26:53 AM »

I don't climb as hard as y'all... But here are my additions...

Lost in the Sun 5
Funhouse to Pooh 7
Lakeview 6
Henderson Ridge 5
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