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Author Topic: The Most Fun Climbs..  (Read 3209 times)

Derek Doucet

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #15 on: December 18, 2012, 09:54:01 AM »

...
PS Moby grape has 100' of good climbing,, max

Are you joking? I guess I include Reppy's when I talk about Moby as I have never done the original start but that is a 180 foot pitch with the absolute best 5.8 hand crack in NH, no matter how much it hurts peoples ankles...

Pitch 2 is meh but pitch 3 is another gem, with the devious triangular roof leading to some fun climbing before the pitch ends, at notably my least favorite belay anchor on the climb...

Pitch 4 is meh, but pitch 5, The Sickle.... common... that thing is insane... did it once on the left side, and every ascent since on the right :)

I admit, after pitch 5 the route is meh, and I've actually never done the correct pitch 7, but pitch 1-5 have way more than "100' of good climbing"...

Hey Dman-

I take it the belay you don't care for above the Triangle Roof is the traditional one 30-40' above on the big ledge with all the loose blocks? If so, next time try this: Belay on the small but totally adequate (even for a party of 3) ledge immediately after pulling the roof. There's a bomber .75ish camalot crack in flawless rock there, and it gives you perfect line of site and communication with your second as s/he negotiates the roof moves. It also puts you exactly where you need to be to assist anyone have trouble there. Best of all, you don't need to belay in the questionable rock on the traditional ledge. You can then easily link through back to either of the typical belays below the Finger with a 60m rope from this ledge as well, so it doesn't add a pitch. This is, in my opinion, a much, much better way to manage that section of the climb.

Here's how I break the first 3 pitches climb down:

P1: Reppys to the bolts. Extend the anchor a bit for good line of site. This is just barely possible to do with a 60m cord.
P2: Up through the loose ledges, avoiding the junk-show chimney bit on the left, and then up and over the Triangle Roof to the stance mentioned above. Good line of sight the whole way.
P3: Up to either of the two ledges below the Finger, and you're back on the usual pitch sequence, though there are some options on the balance of the climb that I think improve things a bit as well.

Cheers,

Derek
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #16 on: December 18, 2012, 10:21:28 AM »

Reppys may be a legitimate hand sized crack, but that alone doesn't make it classic.  Most over rated/ over hyped pitch on the cliff.

Now your talking Cakes !!! Reppy's is a BIT of a hand crack, then big hands and swim crack. BY FAR the best bit of "moby"... It's prolly just me  ;) But I have always thought Moby to be overblown....

I think WG is a better line and Vertigo, only slightly harder , has better climbing(and Union Jack for that matter)

Always get a rise out of people when you talk about Moby Grape
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David_G48

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2012, 12:01:47 PM »

For me the fun climbs are the ones where I really enjoy the partner that I am climbing with at the time. Sometimes when I revisit climbs with different partners the climb either seems fun when it wasn't or not so fun compared to the previous time.                     
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     
« Last Edit: December 18, 2012, 12:05:27 PM by David_G48 »
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2012, 05:28:06 PM »

@ Derek, that sounds great! Thanks for the tip, will be stopping there next time! TBH I have no complaints about the 1st half of the route (I avoid the junk show chimney too), it's the upper bit that detracted a bit, but other than the bouldery move it's my fault for getting off route...

I just realized I left out Red Rocks MP:

Birdland <- hard to beat that kind of fun 5.7
Solar Slab <- I love grade IV 5.5
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 <- most exciting MP I have ever done! Climbed it twice and can't wait to do it again...

Sappy home video of Red Rocks 1.5 years ago featuring Birdland, Olive Oil, and some decent GoPro footage of Solar Slab... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtjf1niLrcs
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #19 on: December 18, 2012, 06:13:40 PM »

I ask again- are all these climbs under 5.10 ?   

Just because a route is hard, doesn't mean it's not fun
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #20 on: December 18, 2012, 06:19:48 PM »

Posting police. Dman  NORTH EAST.   


Strand. whatever route you like that is fun for YOU can be on your list..  I only have 1 5.11a on my multi pitch list because  most of the 5.11s that I have tried were not fun for me..
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #21 on: December 18, 2012, 06:23:00 PM »

I ask again- are all these climbs under 5.10 ?   

Just because a route is hard, doesn't mean it's not fun

I don't lead over 5.10 and I rarely find myself in a position to follow, so... sorry... I can't list any fun 5.11's. I did enjoy following Atlantis and that finger crack to the left of Inferno.
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #22 on: December 18, 2012, 06:36:41 PM »

OK, calm down;  ;)

Intimidation
Looselips
Diedre (though the Budapest finish may be the best pitch on Cathedral)
Nutcracker

Future Shock-- 11a but easy and well prtoected
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #23 on: December 18, 2012, 09:10:42 PM »

A few more additions to my Multi pitch list.  the 2 pitch 8+ ish thing to the right of Armed and dangerous.
Here in VT there are some nice 2 and 3 pitch slabs near ascutny 5.6 -5.9 45min approach keeps the riff raff away.  I would have put Duet Direct on the list but it Kicked my ass just following and I am not so sure it was fun :-[

NY Hurricane cliff has a coupple of nice ones. Quadraphenia etc.

NH

 A bunch of climbs at my secret spot :P
« Last Edit: December 18, 2012, 09:30:49 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #24 on: December 18, 2012, 09:18:32 PM »

Shit how could I forget Acadia!

Story of O
Old Town
Gunklandia
That amazing 5.9 book above Old Town

And while not all MP that whole Precipice area is FILLED with "fun" climbs IMO... From Wafer Step all the way left to Green Mt. Breakdown... fun fun fun....
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #25 on: December 18, 2012, 09:27:41 PM »

Single pitch list.
NH
Underdog
Armed and dangerous
Bolt Line
Lonesome Dove
seventh seal

A whole bunch of climbs @ MY secret spot :P

VT
Deer leap
The Monkey8+
Off width 6
Center Crack 7
Pit and Pendulum 9
The tree 4
Extra stout 8-
Wild Woman 10a
Full Monty 10a
Celibacy 9+
Flat Vision 10a or 11a depending on the start and your ape index
far Side 7+
The hard way 10c
Sunset arrette 8

wheeler
Moose Head crack

Brandon gap the  finger rock

shangrala
 Bloody Sunday 10a

bolton the rose crack

NY  bunch of stuff at the beer walls


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MT

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #26 on: December 18, 2012, 11:36:06 PM »

Climb in NH not mentioned, link of Slow and Easy to Raven's Crack. Three nice pitches of 5.8-9.

In the Dacks, Mr. Clean at Barkeaters.

In VT, upper W. Bolton, link of 5.7+ corner to Chockstone.

I would agree that my most memorable climbs are a mix of the route, the company and the day. Sometimes it's as much about the rock as the route.

Mike
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sneoh

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #27 on: December 18, 2012, 11:54:53 PM »

DMan, that .9+ inside corner above Old Town is Return To Forever.  Really nice and puts you in a great and scenic position.  Gunklandia is very nice too.  Chitlin Corner, .10a for both pitches, is very good.

Metamorphosis, to the right of A&D, is now one long pitch.  The intermediate anchor was removed, I believe.  A 60m is enough to lower from the top but barely.  Bring enough draws or skip one or two on the upper headwall (I do).  It is my fave .8/.8+ at Rumney.  Super warm-up.
Though .11a, Tropicana P1&P2, is just super and quite exposed for a sport route.  And Stairway To Heaven, 5.10a/b, above Charity Case, 5.9, is just fun, fun, fun and gets you to the top of Main Cliff, Rumney. 
« Last Edit: December 19, 2012, 12:00:21 AM by sneoh »
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garyk

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #28 on: December 19, 2012, 08:48:24 PM »

What about a climb called " Little Finger " on Rogers Rock on Lake George ? It is a 3 pitch 5.5 crack on a 700 foot slab coming straight out of the water. You need a boat to access it. The position above the water is amazing.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #29 on: December 19, 2012, 09:28:46 PM »

Little finger is pretty darn good. The Matrix and Screaming Meanie just to it's left are great!
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