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Author Topic: The Most Fun Climbs..  (Read 3378 times)

SidleK

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #30 on: December 20, 2012, 03:58:22 PM »

Since this is posted under general climbing...here are the REAL fun climbs!

Remission
Repentence
The Prominade
Last Gent
Dracula
The Dike
The Drool


Atlantis and They Died...for good measure  ;)
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #31 on: December 20, 2012, 05:02:33 PM »

Oh we talking ice now?

20 below
Way in the Wilderness
Great Madness

and about a hundred others... almost every ice climb is fun :)
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eyebolter

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #32 on: December 20, 2012, 05:06:52 PM »

DMan, that .9+ inside corner above Old Town is Return To Forever.  Really nice and puts you in a great and scenic position.  Gunklandia is very nice too.  Chitlin Corner, .10a for both pitches, is very good.

Metamorphosis, to the right of A&D, is now one long pitch.  The intermediate anchor was removed, I believe.  A 60m is enough to lower from the top but barely.  Bring enough draws or skip one or two on the upper headwall (I do).  It is my fave .8/.8+ at Rumney.  Super warm-up.
Though .11a, Tropicana P1&P2, is just super and quite exposed for a sport route.  And Stairway To Heaven, 5.10a/b, above Charity Case, 5.9, is just fun, fun, fun and gets you to the top of Main Cliff, Rumney.


Good choices.  I took the midway anchor out on Metamorphisis because i felt that it cheated the route.  The downside is that people lower their partners off the end of the rope, but no fixing that unless all routes are limited by law to 60 feet (to include those who have cut off the ends of their ropes).

For easy routes, How about simul climbing the two pitch clip a dee do Dah? The same for Whitehorse Standard, you can climb 800 feet of slab without worrying about dieing, in like a half an hour!

For harder routes, Restless Natives was always my fav, much better than Techno.  A roof, wild overhanging fins and a hand crack in 70 feet. 
« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 05:51:32 PM by eyebolter »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #33 on: December 20, 2012, 06:28:58 PM »

Ice. NH
Hobbit
Standard
Dracula
Chia
B Dike
Jaws
Shottish gully
the slab just left of scottish
The Curtain
Yellow Icicle
White stripe
that cool 4 just left of jaws Vagabond!
newfound lake
Selson blue
Cave route
geographic factor
 the beast
etc.



VT
 The gent
20 below
Crazy Diamond
GlassM
 Extensive Homology
Float
Called
Le prom is too scary to be fun :-\

Blind fate
BIB
Hidden gully
Grand illusion
Blue room daves etc, etc
Bristol Slabs
The grade 4 left of bristol Slabs. i call this Alpenglow Pillars.
back wall @ bristol.
 etc. Etc.
out of time again NY at a later date,,,
« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 06:32:19 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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sneoh

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #34 on: December 20, 2012, 07:25:37 PM »

For easy routes, How about simul climbing the two pitch clip a dee do Dah? The same for Whitehorse Standard, you can climb 800 feet of slab without worrying about dieing, in like a half an hour!
A buddy and I have been talking about simul climbing CaDDD for a year now.  I think we are finally going to do it in 2013!  I think we are going to have the leader tie into the mid-point of a 60m rope so that we get to simul climb at least half the route! :)  Twenty draws ought to be enough!
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #35 on: December 20, 2012, 07:30:37 PM »

i got an ice f/a for you  400+ feet ice thin slab shit , then 200' or so of steep corner/pillar
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #36 on: December 20, 2012, 08:25:30 PM »

i got an ice f/a for you  400+ feet ice thin slab shit , then 200' or so of steep corner/pillar

ummmm... where?
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DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #37 on: December 20, 2012, 08:27:49 PM »

For easy routes, How about simul climbing the two pitch clip a dee do Dah? The same for Whitehorse Standard, you can climb 800 feet of slab without worrying about dieing, in like a half an hour!
A buddy and I have been talking about simul climbing CaDDD for a year now.  I think we are finally going to do it in 2013!  I think we are going to have the leader tie into the mid-point of a 60m rope so that we get to simul climb at least half the route! :)  Twenty draws ought to be enough!

Is this serious? Why carry a rope and 20 draws all the way to CaDDD if that is your intention? You can solo that in clunkers*

*I've only done it once but it was in approach shoes and I remember it being 5.3 easy...
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sneoh

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #38 on: December 20, 2012, 10:21:45 PM »

I prolly could but I promised my wife I would not solo after our kid came along. I am pretty sure you know how that works. 
She is not a climber so she prolly does not know some of the stuff I have done with a rope since were more dangerous objectively speaking than free soloing CaDDD.  Not to mention if, for some reason, I fly off CaDDD and get smashed up real bad, not leading with a rope might mean ins co does not pay (I have not read all the fine print to know for sure).  Free soloing CaDDD means nothing to me at this point in my life.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #39 on: December 20, 2012, 10:23:46 PM »

ya but it's not really a solo. kind of about the same as walking on slick rock in arches only better friction...
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sneoh

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #40 on: December 20, 2012, 10:31:22 PM »

I am not going to try to explain the difference to my wife.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #41 on: December 20, 2012, 10:57:53 PM »

... not leading with a rope might mean ins co does not pay (I have not read all the fine print to know for sure). ...

You should, because some insurance policies don't cover climbing accidents as defined by "ropes being used", but hiking falls are fine... so if you fall off a solo attempt of anything just say you were out hiking ;)

And I certainly would never encourage anyone to do anything they didn't feel comfortable doing... but as tradman says, it isn't really a solo... I have hiked down harder walk offs in Red Rocks and even Joshua Tree...

Again, I have only done it once, but I don't remember a move much harder than walking up to the Launch Pad at Whitehorse... maybe I'm not remembering it that well...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #42 on: December 21, 2012, 06:50:01 AM »

We were walking allong the base of whitehorse comming from Childrens crusade and somhow ended up at about the level of the launchpad from  sea of holes on over to where all the  crowds are. sandals, full packs, sunset. there was a dog hanging out on the launchpad and a bunch of people stacked up rappelling past us as we walked down the apron. Kind of a sureal experience that has kept me from doing any of the climbs on that end of the cliff..
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strandman

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #43 on: December 21, 2012, 09:51:44 AM »

i got an ice f/a for you  400+ feet ice thin slab shit , then 200' or so of steep corner/pillar

ummmm... where?

NH   :)
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JBrochu

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Re: The Most Fun Climbs..
« Reply #44 on: December 21, 2012, 10:55:55 AM »

We were walking allong the base of whitehorse comming from Childrens crusade and somhow ended up at about the level of the launchpad from  sea of holes on over to where all the  crowds are. sandals, full packs, sunset. there was a dog hanging out on the launchpad and a bunch of people stacked up rappelling past us as we walked down the apron. Kind of a sureal experience that has kept me from doing any of the climbs on that end of the cliff..

When was this?

Don't tell anyone, but in my experience the slabs are much less crowded over the past 5 years than they used to be. I've climbed many a weekend day on the WH slabs in recent years without any troubles with crowds.
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