Today, every people know the distinction between cross country skiing and alpine skiing. And nobody will say stupid thing like we both are on sky, weir winter equipment, etc. the difference is obvious, more than in our sport.
For those who make the distinction, we donít want either to be characterize, but we just need a guideline to be safe as we use both ethic. So, I try to give a definition of trad climbing to keep open our site and to interest people in that ethic of climbing. So, trad climber need:
1-skill for leadership: Protection of the party against any danger. As a leader, you have to take decision and the other member have to help the leader to be safe. Two good decision take by two climber in the same team result often in one bad situation. Training: follow experiences climbers and take the responsibility of leadership in small group.
2- skill for planification: Knowledge of the weather to know from where the storm will arrive, where is the route and to be able to find the big structure on the cliff for orientation, where we can rappel, when it is better to go to the summit than bail, quantity of water, food, ect.
3- skill for route finding: Knowledge to read the rock if we are doing a first ascent without indication. I considere that using a book like Webster, where we have a description of each pitch, the extreme limit before cheating. It is a ground up situation with some indication that a good climber could find by himself if he had, at least, a line to know that a route exist. Doing a route for a second time was describe as a training or just a relaxation.
4- skill for anticipation: Knowledge of the structure of the rock to find the hold and knowledge of the technique to find the best position. It is necessary to have no previous knowledge of the route because anticipation necessitate a prediction that a situation will arrived after a move.
5-skill for stress. Knowledge of our reaction on stress. On a bolt, the stress is just to fall. On a pro, the direction of the pull, the possibility that the pro pop out is more present. The obligation of running out is some time very stressfull as death can be the results. People can be stress two or three days before a climb like vmcdirect. In fact, more you want a route, more dangerous is the stress.
6-skill for rope drag: Using the rope to avoid rope drag and calculate the distance of the belay. Avoiding fall factor two, zipper effect, and high impact on weak protection
7- skill for using protection: How to place three rpís and be safe, limit of stopper, hex, tricam and mechanics.
8- physical skill: strength to rest and look to anticipate the next movement. To go to see and return at a rest. Strength to climb multi pitch in a day
9-mental skill: capacity to stay many hours or days on the rock. To be able to rest at the belay and to be able to understand a situation even if we are very tired.
Those are some important skill in trad climbing, maybe some of them need to be clarify or better describe. It is my question.