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Author Topic: Belay anchor procedure  (Read 1143 times)

Nico

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Belay anchor procedure
« on: January 03, 2013, 08:30:03 AM »

On ice, when I reach the point where I am going to build an anchor, I usually put in a screw (or sling a drip, etc.), clip a biner to the pro, and tie myself off with a clove hitch to the biner, using the rope. I then call "off belay" and finish building the anchor. When I have a master point I tie into the master point locking biner  with a clove hitch and the rope, untie the first clove hitch, and get ready to belay the second.

I hate opening the biner on the first piece of pro, which I have to do to remove the clove hitch, and it can be awkward getting the clove hitch off that biner without shifting the anchor's sling or cordellette off that biner. Also my method seems slow. Is there a better way? Something about using a sling, girth hitched to my harness and clipped to the first screw?

I have looked in my various books and somehow I am not seeing the procedure.

Jeff

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2013, 10:10:49 AM »

I clip into the first screw with a clove hitch on a quick draw; when I incorporate that screw into my equalizing power point anchor sling, I just use another biner on the screw closer to the ice than the first one and then remove the quickdraw (NOTE: if you were comfortable saying OFF BELAY when clipped to one anchor screw, you shouldn't worry about removing that clove hitch as you clip the power point sling into that screw, as long as the rest of the anchor you've constructed is at least as good as your first screw--if it isn't, then you do have a worry  :-\ and should correct the problem).
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frik

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2013, 10:31:19 AM »

Howabout; Instead of tying off to the first piece, just clip into it, using a locker and stay on belay until you get the entire anchor built. Once the belay is built, re jigger the clipped locker into a clove hitch. Seems simple enough... and safer than being off belay tied into a single piece... unless it's a tree or something.

Probably too easy ....i'd wait to see what Lucky says.
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Jeff

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2013, 10:45:04 AM »

Frik-- I like that as well; I too usually stay "on belay" until my entire anchor is constructed. I was just following Bostwick's orig post in my suggestion. Now should I also maintain the "x position" throughout? :(
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Admin Al

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2013, 05:08:40 PM »

I have a "cows tail" on my harness for this exact purpose. (That's a sling that is girth-hitched on the belay-loop of my harness with a locking biner on it.) I run in one screw and clip to that first. then I add a second, sometimes third, screw and build the anchor with slings or cordelette. Then I clove into that with the rope. THEN I call "off belay" and put away the "cows tail".
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Al Hospers
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Nico

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2013, 08:05:31 PM »

Thanks, guys. I'll try Al's method this weekend. And I'll stay on belay until I'm clipped into my anchor.

Nico

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2013, 08:21:59 PM »

Al -  a 24 inch sling, girth hitched to the belay loop and just clipped with the locker to a gear loop when not in use? Or a longer sling, but if so how stowed when not in use?

DMan

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2013, 08:33:59 PM »

I don't like keeping "cow tails" girth-hitched to my harness solely for this purpose... IMO most anchor stances are quite secure, so the fastest method is to just build the anchor keeping a solid grip on the double length (or cord) as you tie off the anchor... if you led the pitch the anchor stance should be quite secure in comparison right?

If I do feel pumped/sketched I'll clip the first screw of the anchor, in which case the newer BD Screws have two clipping points which facilitates clipping in and continuing the construction without much fanfare...

My typical 2 bomber screw anchor is quick to build, and after I have clipped both I can hold it solid with my left hand as I tie a "one-handed clove-hitch" onto my master point... being able to tie a one-handed clove-hitch is definitely helpful in this situation... as you have the security of holding the anchor with the other hand... something to consider practicing...

If you are going to use a 24 inch (double length) sling just put an overhand halfway up it... clip both the long loop and the shorter loop with a locker to a gear loop... keeps it out of the way (I use this for multiple rappels)
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Admin Al

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2013, 11:43:15 PM »

Al -  a 24 inch sling, girth hitched to the belay loop and just clipped with the locker to a gear loop when not in use? Or a longer sling, but if so how stowed when not in use?

single length sling, big locking pear biner, clipped to a gear loop when not in use. I don't leave it on my harness all the time, I take it on and off every time I climb. that way I can monitor the state of the sling and the loop! FWIW I use the same sling as an extender when I rap.
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lucky luke

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2013, 12:11:47 PM »

Howabout; Instead of tying off to the first piece, just clip into it, using a locker and stay on belay until you get the entire anchor built. Once the belay is built, re jigger the clipped locker into a clove hitch. Seems simple enough... and safer than being off belay tied into a single piece... unless it's a tree or something.

As you asked me, it is exactly what I thought. Better to be on belay and scare of a fall than to be confident on one ice screw. The only think that I can say is that I tye in to the master point and after on a screw because the sling is the weakess parts.

I most say that in an hanging belay, after a pumpy pitch like willougby lake, it is the only thing I can do.   
« Last Edit: February 10, 2013, 12:07:32 AM by lucky luke »
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perswig

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2013, 04:55:13 PM »

Climb with halfs.

Tie into first screw with clove on one strand; build yer master; tie into master with other strand, extending (but not removing) first clove.  Very comfy.
Beauty is, if yer swapping leads, as soon as the next lead is done and OFF, you can be breaking down the master (while they build THEIR anchor), stay clipped to the first/last screw and be ready to rock quick-like when you hear 'ON'.  And if leading in blocks, convert the first clove to a simple clip on the way by as your first 'piece' off the anchor.

Maybe.
Dale

« Last Edit: February 10, 2013, 04:58:17 PM by perswig »
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

old_school

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Re: Belay anchor procedure
« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2013, 02:18:52 PM »

Yes....belay at the anchor!   ;D
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