Generally, I practice self rescue scenarios and load tranfers once a month or so(in my garage). A load transfer seems like quite a bit of work just to pay out five or ten feet of slack.
It is. TBH, load transfers are very rarely needed outside self-rescue. In the situation that occurred in the accident the OP referred to, the route was quite overhanging. It would simplify life greatly, and make sense on many different levels, to belay 2nd's, ESPECIALLY newer climbers like the 2nd's in the accident, utilizing a method that makes lowering easy, i.e. not a Reverso. A Munter Hitch or Gri Gri would be best, however, in hindsight, the REAL problem in the accident was the leader was belaying 2 seconds on difficult overhanging terrain simultaneously... THAT... was the leader's biggest error.
Thinking more on the subject I'll add a 3rd answer to the OP question... and perhaps the simplest answer.
1) Re-direct brake strand through high bomber piece in anchor
2) Add a prussik backup to brake strand (below re-direct)
3) Use a double length dyneema sling girth hitched through the little release hole on ATC Guide or directly through "rope" carabiner on Reverso, run through seperate high biner down to your foot (needed if load line is fully weighted to "pop" the jammed device...
4) Completely "pop" the device using the foot sling, and control the lower using the redirected brake strand backed up with prussik...
This works great for SHORT lowers and is 100% safe when done correctly. Simply release foot pressure to let device re-cam and start belaying again...
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Topic: How do you lower a second from a reverso in a controlled manner? (Read 804 times)