General > Ice & Winter Climbing

Making A V-Thread

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Admin Al:
If you've been wondering how to make a V-Thread, check out this article...

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=article&ArticleIndex=20130104

DLottmann:

--- Quote from: Admin Al on January 04, 2013, 10:27:20 PM ---If you've been wondering how to make a V-Thread, check out this article...

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=article&ArticleIndex=20130104

--- End quote ---

Decent article... kind of dated though... (EDIT: just saw the copyright, is this new?)

“A-threads” are actually stronger, though V-threads are plenty strong enough when constructed in good ice... both test stronger than actual ice screw placements so the whole “not sure if you can belay off it” is a bit silly. “The jury is still out”? No it isn’t...

1 good V or A thread + 1 good screw = bomber multi-pitch anchor IMO... Slightly melt/freeze holes are even better IMO, as long as no sling burn and you don’t make the fatal mistake mentioned of clipping a long tail frozen in the ice... inspection is crucial...

As far as pre-made tools go, I have a older grivel tool that fits into my 22cm screw, and has a built in knife... WAY better than anything I could home-make...

Some deep reading on the topic:

http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf

"The vertical Abalakov is superior in strength to the tradition horizontal or other
configurations tested. We call this the “A-thread”, since discussions with Vince
Anderson inspired investigation into other configurations."

DLottmann:
I was curious if I knew the author, “Jamie Leef” was maybe a friend of a friend on FB so I did a quick search... I don’t think she wrote this article LOL... FB is so awesome... must be a different Jamie Leef...

DLottmann:
Back on topic, found the paper I was looking for comparing V vrs. A...

http://www.itrsonline.org/PapersFolder/2009/SmithGordon-Allen2009_ITRSPaper_VThread.pdf

Admin Al:
Jamie is a friend from the Boston area AMC

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