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Author Topic: Making A V-Thread  (Read 746 times)

Admin Al

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Making A V-Thread
« on: January 04, 2013, 10:27:20 PM »

If you've been wondering how to make a V-Thread, check out this article...

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=article&ArticleIndex=20130104
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2013, 09:08:10 PM »

If you've been wondering how to make a V-Thread, check out this article...

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=article&ArticleIndex=20130104

Decent article... kind of dated though... (EDIT: just saw the copyright, is this new?)

“A-threads” are actually stronger, though V-threads are plenty strong enough when constructed in good ice... both test stronger than actual ice screw placements so the whole “not sure if you can belay off it” is a bit silly. “The jury is still out”? No it isn’t...

1 good V or A thread + 1 good screw = bomber multi-pitch anchor IMO... Slightly melt/freeze holes are even better IMO, as long as no sling burn and you don’t make the fatal mistake mentioned of clipping a long tail frozen in the ice... inspection is crucial...

As far as pre-made tools go, I have a older grivel tool that fits into my 22cm screw, and has a built in knife... WAY better than anything I could home-make...

Some deep reading on the topic:

http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf

"The vertical Abalakov is superior in strength to the tradition horizontal or other
configurations tested. We call this the “A-thread”, since discussions with Vince
Anderson inspired investigation into other configurations."
« Last Edit: January 05, 2013, 09:21:22 PM by DMan »
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DLottmann

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2013, 09:28:11 PM »

I was curious if I knew the author, “Jamie Leef” was maybe a friend of a friend on FB so I did a quick search... I don’t think she wrote this article LOL... FB is so awesome... must be a different Jamie Leef...
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DLottmann

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2013, 09:32:15 PM »

Back on topic, found the paper I was looking for comparing V vrs. A...

http://www.itrsonline.org/PapersFolder/2009/SmithGordon-Allen2009_ITRSPaper_VThread.pdf
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Admin Al

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2013, 10:55:56 AM »

Jamie is a friend from the Boston area AMC
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2013, 08:34:24 PM »

Jamie is a friend from the Boston area AMC

So not a gang banger’s girlfriend from New Zealand? I didn’t think she’d write an article on V-threads... seriously, search for “Jamie Leef” on Facebook... hilarious....
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David_G48

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2013, 07:39:31 PM »

Back on topic, found the paper I was looking for comparing V vrs. A...

http://www.itrsonline.org/PapersFolder/2009/SmithGordon-Allen2009_ITRSPaper_VThread.pdf

Sorry, but without more information we can not accept the findings. The real test is how many trials and how many n factors under a normal bell curve does it encompass.Also where is the base line trial to measure both against.
 In layman terms the difference may not be significant enough to say one is better than the other. Further who cares since both are significantly strong enough to rap off a climb.
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DLottmann

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2013, 03:59:05 PM »

Back on topic, found the paper I was looking for comparing V vrs. A...

http://www.itrsonline.org/PapersFolder/2009/SmithGordon-Allen2009_ITRSPaper_VThread.pdf

Further who cares since both are significantly strong enough to rap off a climb.

Agreed, Other than for intellectual debate ^ this
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David_G48

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2013, 07:30:22 PM »

Dman
Not that I do not believe in what I posted but, I wanted to spark an intellectual response and you did not bite. What is the problem? Do I need to have the name Lucky Luke??? :)
See you on the ice.
Have a Great Season,
David G
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DLottmann

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Re: Making A V-Thread
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2013, 10:17:38 PM »

I'm learning :)
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